What is the origin of the "Three roll two" jacket ? (2024)
The "three-roll-two" jacket has become, since a few years, a staple in most gentlemen's wardrobe, and is also a common idiosyncrasy of the single-breasted Neapolitan style (including the best-selling configuration for the Brooks Brother's sack suit in the USA).
For those among our readers who do not know what we are speaking of, a three-roll-two jacket is a jacket that features 3 buttons holes and three buttons, but with only the middle button intended to be used. These jackets are usually pressed to roll directly to the middle button. The upper button hole is practically invisible to the eye, as it is sewed inside the lapel roll.
But what is the history behind this strange buttoning configuration, by which tailors work hard to create two-button holes (by hand if it's a bespoke jacket) that will never be used ?
In the sartorial world, as in many other worlds, the origins of certain details are obscure. For the three-roll-two jacket, however, Brooks Brothers' explanation seems to be a plausible one : Unable to afford two buttons jackets when three button jackets became passé, at the beginning of the 20th century, college students pressed back the lapels of their old jackets in order to transform them into two buttons coats.
According to this explanation, the origin of the three-roll-two jacket is based on an economical reaction, which we must admit, is not very glamourous. It is a story remeniscent of the reasoning behind why we never button the last button of our jackets : i.e., the portly King Edward VII was simply unable to button the last button of his coats and his vests because of his big belly...and the people followed the trend.
Isn't it funny that those two sartorial habits which we consider to be refined and elegant today, are stemming from utilitarian problems like a lack of money and a large belly ? I would have preferred that these two practices had stemmed from a rebellious act against the statu quo or, at least, a daring stylistic statement from an artistic or sartorialist movement.
These two stories also open a broader subject that I've planned to tackle for a while, weighing the relationship between "Style and Substance".
In his book "The Economics of Attention", author Richard A. Lanham suggests a few ideas that will be the basis of my future writing (and research). He says : "Style and substance, fluff and stuff, are loose and baggy categories but useful ones even so. Important versus peripheral, planned versus spontaneous, natural versus mannered, appearance versus reality, inside versus outside, why versus how, manner versus matter : we must make such distinctions every day. Confusingly enough, though, such pairings describe both the world and what we think is important in it..."
Style and substance should work hand in hand, otherwise if the object (dressing well with taste) becomes the subject (you), then your quest can risk becoming soulless and egocentric. Let's explore soon...
And by the way, I love the three-roll-two jackets (as you can see below).
For the three-roll-two jacket, however, Brooks Brothers' explanation seems to be a plausible one : Unable to afford two buttons jackets when three button jackets became passé, at the beginning of the 20th century, college students pressed back the lapels of their old jackets in order to transform them into two buttons ...
This is a style that features 3. buttonholes and 3 buttons, with the intention to only. use the middle button. Unusual to the common eye, however tradition dates. back to the mid 1900's when two button jackets came.
3-BUTTON SUITS. 3-button jackets were created at the end of the 19th century. Of Edwardian inspiration, they were first omnipresent in England and worn in France by the dandies of the Third Republic.
On the three-roll-two, the lapels roll down to the middle button, obscuring the top button and pretending like it isn't even there. They often look like a button two jacket with a buttonhole sitting in the middle of the left lapel.
It would be impossible to alter them into a two button suit because the buttonhole for the top button is already cut into the lapel. You could potentially wear it as a 3/2 and re-roll the lapel, but the finished side of the buttonhole (the side with the nicer stitching) will be on the wrong side.
Think of it as a hybrid of the 2-button and 3-button suits. The 3-roll-2 is a 3-button suit masquerading as a 2-button suit. The top button is designed to be left unbuttoned with the lapel shaped to achieve this look. In fact, the lapel is shaped exactly like a 2-button suit, offering that same deep “V”.
A 3 piece suit contains a suit jacket, trousers and a waistcoat (vest). It's considered to be a more formal look and is usually warmer because of the extra piece the waistcoat (vest). They are made from the same matching fabric and are meant to be worn together.
When wearing a suit, always leave the bottom button open for the waistcoat and jacket. The tradition dates back to King Edward VII from the early 1900s. He unbuttoned the bottom of his waistcoat because he was too fat. He unbuttoned the bottom of his jacket to pay homage to the riding jacket that suits replaced.
When you're standing up, fastening your top button is optional - unless it tampers with the fold of the lapel. The middle button should always be fastened, and the bottom button should never be buttoned. As always, remember to unfasten all the buttons before sitting down.
This style also works well for individuals with athletic body types. If you are particularly tall and have felt awkward in a two-button suit, a three-button suit may be more flattering. The top button of this suit will sometimes be buttoned, the middle will always be buttoned, and the bottom will never be buttoned.
It's purpose was to allow closing your jacket all the way up. Today it is instead for the adorning of flowers, lapel pins and the occasional monocle clips. The word boutonniere is in fact the French word for buttonhole, and a certain tailoring technique can add new distinction to the lapel.
How to wear lapel pins? There's only one golden rule for lapel pins: To wear them approximately where the lapel buttonhole is or would be. That's the upper part of the left lapel. Some double-breasted suits have these buttonholes on both lapels, but lapel pins should always go on the left-hand side.
The word “lapel” was used first in the mid 17th century, a combination of lap+el (“diminutive suffix”), lap comes from the word lappe – it is an old English word læppa which means skirt or flap of a garment.
Over the last decade, the three-button jacket has all but disappeared. In the 1990s and early 2000s, they were prevalent. But coinciding with the advent of slimmer fits, the three-button jacket has almost vanished. You could chalk this up to the fickleness of fashion, and that may be true.
King Edward VII also set the trend for unbuttoning the bottom of suit jackets. Edward left the bottom button undone as a throwback to when suit jackets were worn as riding coats and to look less “common”. In the beginning, suits were meant more for casual wear, and were even worn when riding horses.
What makes up a 3 in 1 jacket? A 3 in 1 jacket typically consists of a waterproof and breathable outer jacket, also known as a shell, plus a warm, fleece-style jacket on the inside. They can be worn separately or zipped together, giving three possible configurations – perfect for changeable weather.
Integrated layering system for changing weather conditions
Our 3in1 system combines two jackets with zip system: a weatherproof jacket to protect against the rain and an insulating layer that provides warmth and breathability.
38 short. 42 long. The number is your chest measurement (how many inches around). The word refers to the length of the jacket (how low it sits on your waist). Obviously, taller guys will need 'long' suit jackets, and shorter guys will need 'short' ones.
Imagine a down vest you can transform into a jacket, then zip into a waterproof shell. Or envisage wearing the shell, then adding the down vest underneath for extra warmth. Our latest Benmore Men's 5-in-1 Jacket is all this and more.
Hobby: LARPing, Kitesurfing, Sewing, Digital arts, Sand art, Gardening, Dance
Introduction: My name is Amb. Frankie Simonis, I am a hilarious, enchanting, energetic, cooperative, innocent, cute, joyous person who loves writing and wants to share my knowledge and understanding with you.
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