Over the last decade, the three-button jacket has all but disappeared. In the 1990s and early 2000s, they were prevalent. But coinciding with the advent of slimmer fits, the three-button jacket has almost vanished. You could chalk this up to the fickleness of fashion, and that may be true. However, I think there are several limiting and subtle factors that are preventing the three-button from making a comeback.
Jacket length
If you’re old enough to order an alcoholic beverage, than you might have noticed that jackets are significantly shorter than they were in the last decade. It stands to reason that the loss of a couple of inches of real estate would lend itself to fewer buttons. However, there have been eras when jackets were on the shorter side and three-buttons still existed.
The Rolling Stones, 1965.Agence France-Presse — Getty Images
In the picture above, several members of the Rolling Stones are wearing relatively short jackets with three buttons. Therefore, jacket length can’t be the sole reason that the third button has disappeared.
Higher button stance
Most current-day suits have a relatively high top button compared to other fashion eras. The location of this button is referred to as the “button stance” or “button stand”. With a higher button stance, the second button is encroaching on the third’s real estate, reducing the ability to place a third button in its natural location. The higher placement is partially for aesthetic reasons, but it’s mostly necessary to provide maximum waist suppression by anchoring at the true waist (slimmest section of the torso just below the ribcage). If the button is placed lower, the jacket waist will have to be cut larger to accommodate the circumference of the hips.
Waist suppression
There arequite a few stylistic similarities between 1960s men’s suits and the modern version, but the most noticeable difference is the lack of waist suppression – the 1960s jacket had a considerably boxier cut. Due to the similarities, the roots of the modern suit are generally attributed to 1960s more than any other era. Though there is a resemblance – both are historically on the shorter side with slim, flat front trousers and sometimes narrow lapels – I think the comparison has become a little exaggerated, due in part to the not entirely faithful wardrobes of period pieces like Mad Men.
Early 1960s suit, source unknown
In the first half of the 20th century, the “sack jacket,” a straight cut jacket with very little hourglass shaping, was commonplace. Today, just about all jackets have darts running vertically from the chest to the pockets, as well as a separate panel that runs vertically from the armhole, for a total of six panels:
The image above depicts the left side of a modern six panel sewing pattern with a chest dart. On a sack jacket, the dart would be absent and the chest and side panels would be combined into one piece. The dart and additional panel allow for more pronounced waist suppression. In any garment, darts and panels permit a rapid increase or decrease in circumference – in this case from the chest to waist. An average man has a difference of six or seven inches between his chest and waist (more for bodybuilders and less for those carrying extra weight in the midsection). Today’s norm of a large chest-to-waist ratio would be nearly impossible using a sack jacket pattern:
In the image above, a cylinder is serving as a simplified proxy for a torso. If the midsection is cinched up without any darting/panels, the fabric has nowhere to go and becomes creased and wrinkled.
By contrast, darts allow for smooth shaping between the different circumferences:
While jacket length and button stance are straightforward enough, the effect that waist suppression has on the number of buttons is less obvious, though I think it is the primary reason that two-button jackets are so pervasive. If jackets in the 1960s dropped two or three inches from chest to waist vs. today’s norm of six or seven, this would create a sharper angle in the modern jacket. Because of this more extreme taper, it would stand to reason that the lower chest/sternum would be significantly tighter as a result. Since the lower chest/sternum is the traditional location of the top button on a three-button jacket, any tightness in that area could impede the function of the top button.
Chest allowance
The chest allowance – the amount of extra fabric added to a garment over the body measurements – in modern suits is also considerably less than it has been in most three-button eras. In addition to the chest tightness associatedwith amore fittedwaist, as discussed earlier, a closer fitting chest would further restrict the ability to close the top button of a three-button jacket.
So is the three-button jacket extinct?
After a decade of historically shorter and tighter jackets without a dramatic reversal in this trend, it seems unlikely that the three-button jacket is due for major comeback anytime soon. However, fashion is cyclical and there have been some signs of a shift away from the hyper-trim style – jacket length is a touch longer than it was a few years ago, lapels are a hair wider. I believe that the very baggy fit of the 1990s and early 2000s was more of an anomaly than the current fitted trend. But as I’ve written before,thesestyles are at opposing sides on the spectrum of historical extremes, so I’d put my money on a continued incremental easing of the ultra-fitted trend, but probably not enough to accommodate a third button in the foreseeable future.
FAQs
These suits never go out of trend no matter how many new styles are being added. It is the ideal suit for you to pick up if you are a man of traditions and want to look stylish at the same time. This is a must-have suit that compliments your look wherever you go.
Are 3 button men's suits out of style? ›
Three-button suits go in and out of style every few years, so right now they're out and he's going to have a very hard time finding one on most off-the-rack manufacturers.
What happened to 3 button suits? ›
Over the last decade, the three-button jacket has all but disappeared. In the 1990s and early 2000s, they were prevalent. But coinciding with the advent of slimmer fits, the three-button jacket has almost vanished. You could chalk this up to the fickleness of fashion, and that may be true.
What is the 3 button rule? ›
The three-button suit comes with a simple rule: "sometimes, always, never." It means you should sometimes fasten the top button (if you feel like it), always fasten the middle button, and never button the third. Fasten every button save for the bottom button, though even here there is some leeway.
Which jacket is most versatile? ›
However, a bomber jacket is one of the most versatile pieces to invest in, as it can be dressed up or dressed down as per the occasion. If you are looking for something far warmer, settle for a puffer jacket. The trending jackets in 2022 include parkas, anoraks, shearling and trucker jackets.
When did 3 piece suits go out of style? ›
From the mid-20th century onwards, the three-piece suit was slowly phased out in favour of the more casual lounge suit (a jacket and trousers). The waistcoat, which had been used to house a pocket watch, no longer served a functional purpose when men began wearing wristwatches.
What suits are in style now 2022? ›
To create a look that is uniquely yours, all you need to do is carefully mix and match these stylish necessities.
- Foil Print Suit Sets. the loom – Royal Blue Embroidered Velvet Suit. ...
- Tunic Suit Sets. the loom – Yellow Cotton Lurex High Low Tunic. ...
- Skirt Suit Sets. ...
- Printed Suits. ...
- Bright-hued Dupatta Suits. ...
- Dhoti Pants Suits.
Oversized Look
Suiting which was previously considered completely dressy and fitted is now becoming more relaxed. Instead of traditional fitted jackets and trousers, an oversized look is trending in 2021 (great for those who've put on some extra weight during the lockdown!).
What is the style for 2022 men? ›
In 2022, we anticipate that stripes and checks will be the most popular prints for men's fashion. Find a handful of shirts, whether they're men's t-shirts or men's button down shirts, that have these prints so that you can stay on top of this trend.
Who should wear a 3 button suit? ›
Younger men who are on the thinner side may look towards three-button styles when choosing a new suit. This style also works well for individuals with athletic body types. If you are particularly tall and have felt awkward in a two-button suit, a three-button suit may be more flattering.
Though not the most popular style, four-button double-breasted suit jackets are timeless and classic. The 4x1 is more common than the 4x2. For the 4x1, you only need to fasten the bottom working button.
Can a blazer have 3 buttons? ›
The 3-button jacket is also classic and can be well tailored, as in European style, or more casual and boxier, as in the traditional American cut. You have two options: Fasten just the middle. Attach both the middle and top buttons, but the bottom button always stays open.
Is 3 buttons too much? ›
For a grill-out with your buds, the standard rule of thumb is two to three buttons undone from the collar. But you also get more leeway for the lower buttons at the hem. This looseness is only acceptable if your shirt is half-tucked and in this case, you may unbutton the last two buttons.
How do you get the 3 button? ›
If you use an older Android version
- Open your phone's Settings app.
- Go to System Gestures. Swipe up on Home button.
- Turn Swipe up on Home button off or on. If you turn it on, you're using 2-button navigation. If you turn it off, you're using 3-button navigation.
It wants to be undone. However, undoing more than two buttons to expose too much skin begins to look a little like a Lothario. Where's your gold medallion? Ergo, two buttons is the sweet spot.
What jacket goes with everything? ›
These are the coat colors that will go with everything: Black; Earth Tones (olive green, browns, beige) Red; Navy; Light Blue; Keep reading to see how you can choose the perfect coat to add to your wardrobe. The camel coat's universally-flattering, goes-with-everything color is neutral.
Which jacket makes you look slimmer? ›
Short jackets will make you appear taller and slimmer because they show more of your legs and your torso.
Why did men stop wearing suits? ›
Now, the “suit” has become casual-looking and has taken a back seat to more causal clothing styles like t-shirts and jeans. With globalization, American clothing standards have caused many other countries to emulate the same causal dressing styles, causing a decline in the “traditional” suit's use in daily life.
Are suits becoming obsolete? ›
They have been replaced in the ONS basket with a “formal jacket or blazer”. Nick Paget, a senior menswear editor and “trends forecaster” at the consumer analytics firm WGSN, says “many men have simply fallen out of love with suits, if they ever did love them”.
Are three-piece suits making a comeback? ›
Don't call it a comeback. Consider it a reboot. Truth be told, the three-piece suit has never completely gone away from mainstream fashion, it has merely recalibrated itself to changing times in ways that are more accessible to people of all shapes and sizes, genders, and personal aesthetics.
Navy suits
Navy is the most popular men's suit color, hands down, making up 50% of all suits. It makes sense, as the colour navy represents power and authority — both traits one wants to feel when they wear a suit. That's why navy is known as the presidential suit color.
What is the best color to wear in 2022? ›
According to fashion's top designers, we're in for a very regal 2022. Just look at the color palette! Royal purple, jewel-tone teal, and burning red are all trending hues incorporated on the Fall/Winter 2022 runways, each with its glamorous style.
Are 3 piece suits fashionable? ›
Three-piece suits are effortlessly contemporary and stylish and are often preferred at business, weddings, and many other events. As a matter of fact, it's the best choice by far for any formal occasion. The modern designs may also be worn on casual nights.
Can you wear a 3 piece suit to the office? ›
The short answer is, yes! Keep darker colours like black and navy for the office, but you can experiment with grey, white or even coloured three-piece suits like light blue. If you want to wear a three-piece suit to work, make sure you keep it neutral.
