The History of Princess Cut Diamonds - International Gem Society (2024)

The princess cut diamond evolved from the French Cut, which evolved from the table cut appearing in the 14th century. Over time, cutters became savvier to the relationship of the facet placement and the angles of one facet to another on a diamond. There are some discussions as to when the term Princess Cut diamonds began to be used. Some diamond historians think it also started in the 1960s. By the 1980s, diamond lovers enthusiastically embraced the princess cut diamond.

A Diamond Cut From Centuries Ago

So, you like princess cut diamonds, do you? Well, you're in great company. Some of the most style savvy collectors opt for diamonds cut into square shapes. The luxurious square diamond shape has some serious historical roots dating back to the 14th century. So, in a real sense, the square cut diamond has held jewelry fans spellbound for hundreds of years. Its popularity lies in its particular facet diagram (the cutting pattern) that helps the stone reflect light back to the eye. It also has clean straight lines that keep it looking fresh and on trend no matter how old or new it is.

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First It Was A French Cut

Let's take a brief overview of the history of square diamonds so you can appreciate this cut even more. It is thought that the earliest cutters who created square diamonds did so because they wanted to optimize the rough diamond crystals that often came in an octahedron shape. While a diamond crystal may be recovered in many configurations, it has a crystal habit of the octahedron shape—meaning it is often discovered this way. In very early times, prior to modern scientific methods of gemstone separation, dealers relied heavily on the crystal habits of gemstones as an important way to aid in gemstone identity.

Think of the octahedron as two pyramids connected at their flat bottom surface. The pyramid shapes would have helped early diamantaires to shape the diamond in the way they wanted. When they cut square shapes from the octahedron, there was much less diamond cut away, so the resulting stone yielded a much larger carat weight. That's a good thing. For centuries this primitive square cut was favored, and by the early 20th century it became referred to as the French Cut diamond. The hallmark of a good French Cut diamond is that it retains much of its original rough shape while still producing stones with spectacular light return -which is a jazzy way to express their 'sparkle'. It was such a brilliant way to cut and polish diamonds, that cutters used this same pattern to fashion sapphires, rubies and emeralds which were the top colored stones during that era. When you think of the Art Deco period, which evolved during the 1920s, you may recall seeing many fashionable high-jewelry stones cut into square shapes—diamonds and colored gemstones alike. This is because the Art Deco era paid homage to the glorious age of Industry and the architectural advancements made during that time period. So, there was a geometrical aspect to fine diamond and gemstone jewelry.

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It is important to note what a great shape this is for the gents, too. The geometrical design of square diamonds lends themselves to a sophisticated men's wedding band. Take a look here for some inspiration:

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Innovation Created The Princess Cut

Like every other industry, the diamond trade has been a business marked by innovation and evolution. As cutting processes became more complex and knowledge of light performance in a diamond became more understood, every diamond shape underwent transformation, decade after decade. The square cut diamond also evolved into what was known as the square modified brilliant cut within the trade. We see that this definition of a square diamond shape first appeared during the early 1960s. The cutting pattern was different from its earlier incarnation as the French Cut. Cutters were becoming savvier to the relationship of the facet placement and the angles of one facet to another on a diamond. All this aided in producing diamonds that were more brilliant than their earlier counterparts. There are some discussions as to when the term Princess Cut diamonds began to be used. Some diamond historians think it also started in the 1960s. But definitely by the 1980s, diamond lovers enthusiastically embraced the Princess Cut diamond.

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The popularity of square cut diamonds has never waned. The reason for the wild enthusiasm with the Princess shape diamond has to do with its ultra-feminine look. It also evokes a fresh modern vibe that today's brides prefer. Many jewelry collectors love the Princess or square cut diamond so much that nothing less than a timeless diamond solitaire will do to best show it off.

The History of Princess Cut Diamonds - International Gem Society (11)
The History of Princess Cut Diamonds - International Gem Society (2024)

FAQs

The History of Princess Cut Diamonds - International Gem Society? ›

Inception: The Princess Cut was first developed in the 1960s, and it is often credited to Arpad Nagy, a London diamond cutter. He created the Princess Cut by applying a modified brilliant cut to a square-shaped diamond, giving it a unique combination of facets that enhanced its brilliance.

What is the history of princess cut diamonds? ›

The story of the princess cut first begins in 1961 when a diamond cutter from England, Arpad Nagy, created a square design, which he called the “princess cut”. This stone was square, but it didn't have the same level of faceting underneath as a modern princess cut, and the name didn't really catch on at the time.

Why not to buy a princess cut diamond? ›

Clarity, Color, Careless

One of the big bummers about princess cut diamonds is that they tend to show off inclusions and color a bit more than a round brilliant.

What does the princess cut diamond symbolize? ›

Princess: This cut is a square or rectangular-shaped diamond that has many facets to give it a high level of brilliance. It's popular because of its modern elegance. A princess-cut diamond symbolizes strength, power, and confidence.

What is the history of the marquise cut? ›

The history of the Marquise Cut dates back to the 18th Century. King Louis XV of France paid a jeweller, to create a completely unique shaped diamond that compared to the lips of his mistress. The cut has then been developed and modified, evolving it into the stunning cut known today.

How can you tell if a princess cut diamond is real? ›

Princess cut Diamond Ring in 4 Claw Setting

Fill up a glass about three quarters of the way up with water and drop in the loose stone. You'll be able to tell if the diamond is real as it will sink. If your loose stone floats underneath the surface of the water, it's a fake.

What is another name for a princess cut diamond? ›

Princess cut diamonds, also sometimes called square modified brilliant diamonds, can have anywhere from 50 to 58 facets. They can also have a different number of chevrons. Most often, princess cut diamonds have 2 or 4 chevron facets.

Do princess cut diamonds chip easily? ›

Durability. Since the corners of a princess cut diamond may snag, they're likely to chip. Their corners should always be protected with prongs to reduce the risk of damage to the stone. Although round diamonds can still chip, they don't have any weak points so prone to chipping.

What is most important in a princess cut diamond? ›

The quality of cut for a princess cut diamond is going to be extremely important in delivering a beautiful, sparkly stone. Because of how much of the diamond rough is retained, a princess cut diamond requires higher depth percentages – between 69-76% – in order for it to exhibit excellent light return.

What diamond cut is the prettiest? ›

Which Cut or Shape Is Best for a Diamond's Sparkle? The best cut for a diamond, as far as sparkle goes, is the brilliant round cut.

Is princess cut diamond good investment? ›

Offering both fire and brilliance, princess cuts are typically more affordable due to efficient rough diamond utilization. However, their distinct sharp corners necessitate protective settings. If you are considering purchasing a princess cut diamond, focus on H-I color and VS2-SI1 clarity to maximize value.

Why are princess cut diamonds cheaper than round? ›

In order to achieve the elegance of the round shape and sparkle we all know so well, a great deal of the rough stone must be sacrificed. In short, that is the main reason round diamond are more expensive than princess diamonds.

What color for princess cut diamond? ›

Color grade: For the best color in a princess diamond, go for a Colorless (D, E, F) or Near Colorless (G, H, I) grade. Clarity grade: Though princess diamonds are great at hiding inclusions, they can be prone to chipping if an inclusion is in one of the four sharp corners.

What does a marquise diamond say about you? ›

The Marquise Diamond

This is for the woman who commands attention, who is outgoing, and a risk taker. The marquise cut is the ultimate in elegance. Its oval shape meets in pointed ends, resembling the hull of a ship — this cut is also known as the Navette cut (meaning “l*ttle boat” in French).

What is special about a marquise diamond? ›

Diamond cutters confirm that the modern marquise cut handles light almost as perfectly as a round brilliant cut diamond. Symmetry is a key characteristic with the marquise cut diamond, but also is being well-proportioned. One doesn't want the stone looking too long, or too short and squat.

What does the oval diamond mean? ›

An oval diamond symbolizes everlasting love, family, and new beginnings, all of the things that come to mind when we think of a new marriage. The diamond's oval shape is endless as the diamond's facets circulate for eternity. This type of cut has many other meanings, demonstrating its versatility.

Why are princess cut diamonds popular? ›

It is an exciting alternative to the traditional round brilliant cut diamond, with a beauty and elegance that can't be matched. The Princess Cut owes its shape to cutters wanting to maximise weight but also maintaining a high level of brilliance. This helps to cut down on waste from the rough.

What is the history of brilliant cut diamonds? ›

The round brilliant cut diamond is the most well-known and popular shape of diamond cut. It was first created in the 17th century, but it wasn't until 100 years ago that the cut really started to come into its own.

What is the difference between diamond cut and princess cut? ›

For example, a princess cut diamond will appear larger than a round cut diamond of the exact same carat size. This is because the princess shape has larger tables (the top of a diamond) than round cut stones making them larger in appearance to the naked eye.

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