All you need to know about Princess Cut Diamonds | Quality Diamonds (2024)

A Princess Cut diamond is the second most popular diamond shape and is fast growing in popularity due to its clean lines and glamorous amount of sparkle.

All you need to know about Princess Cut Diamonds | Quality Diamonds (1)

Princess Cut Diamond (Top View)

All you need to know about Princess Cut Diamonds | Quality Diamonds (2)

Princess Cut Diamond (Side View)

OutlineSquare; sharp, unclipped corners
Cutting StyleBrilliant
DescriptionExquisite, sparkling diamond with a contemporary edge
No. of Facets57
Ideal L/W Ratio1.0


GRACEFULLY MODERN

Square is the new Round

Though technically the Round Brilliant is better optimized to reflect the maximum amount of light, the Princess Cut comes very close and is an excellent choice if you’re looking for the ultimate sparkler. It’s perfect for those who want the fire of a Round Brilliant in a less traditional form.

We Say

Look for a stone with the optimal length-to-width ratio of between 0.98 and 1.02 for that crisp square profile.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS AND GRADING

A Princess Cut diamond is also sometimes known as a Square Modified Brilliant Cut. It typically has 57 facets - 21 on the crown, 4 on the girdle, and 33 on the pavilion, although Princess Cut diamonds with only 25 facets on the pavilion are also common.

Shop loose princess-cut diamonds

Due to its design, the Princess Cut requires more of the carat weight to be directed towards the base of the stone to maximize brilliance, which means a Princess Cut stone will appear smaller than a Round Brilliant of the same carat weight. Despite this, a Princess Cut diamond retains approximately 80% of the original rough diamond crystal compared to the Round Brilliant’s 50%, so Princess Cut diamonds are usually better value weight for weight.

Unlike other square styles (Emerald and Radiant) the Princess Cut does not have clipped corners. If choosing a Princess Cut, bear in mind the sharp corners are a point of weakness and can be easily chipped so ensure they’re protected by the setting.


GRADING

Currently, there aren't any universally accepted standards for grading the cut of Princess Cut diamonds so certifying laboratories don’t do it. Instead, it’s down to individual retailers to evaluate the quality of the cut for this shape.

We’ve developed our own criteria to provide consistent cut grading for all the Princess Cut diamonds we offer. These take into account factors such as table and depth percentage, polish and symmetry, and length-to-width ratio.

Refer to the table below to see how we grade Princess Cut diamonds.

ExcellentVery GoodGoodFairPoor
Table %57%-72%55%-75%54%-80%52%-85%<52% or >85%
Depth%62%-73%60%-77%57%-83%55%-84%<56% or >84%
Polish / SymmetryGood to ExcellentFair to ExcellentPoor to Excellent
Ratio (L/W)1.00-1.021.00-1.041.00-1.051.00-1.07<1.00 or >1.07


BACKGROUND AND HISTORY

The Princess Cut is a generic cut, meaning it hasn't been patented by or attributed to one designer. It emerged in the 1960s and has its basis in the 15th Century French Cut, which was used to create typically square or rectangular stones with a ‘cross’ pattern clearly visible in the crown. Compared to the French Cut, the Princess Cut has more facets giving it much more sparkle.

Over the years, the term Princess Cut has been used in connection with other styles of cut, such as the Profile Cut designed by Arpad Nagy (London, 1961).

In 1971, Basil Watermeyer of Johannesburg introduced the ‘Barion’ Cut, a square cut diamond with 4-fold mirror-image symmetry, clipped corners, and a total of 81 facets. The Barion Cut has since faded into obscurity but it is generally considered to be the forerunner of the Princess Cut we know today.

Length to Width Ratio

The accepted norm for a Princess Cut is square rather than rectangle, so look for a length-to-width ratio as close to 1.0 as you can get. The price is slightly lower for a Princess Cut diamond with a length-to-width ratio greater than 1.05, but bear in mind at this ratio it will start to look more rectangular in shape.

Setting

As the second most popular shape, there are many styles of jewellery settings designed for the princess cut diamond giving you much more choice than you might have for, say, a Marquise.

Because of its pointed corners, a Princess Cut diamond requires a four-claw setting to prevent chipping.

STYLE GUIDE

Princess Beau Diamond Ring in 18K Yellow Gold

Diamond Set Princess Delara Diamond Ring in Platinum

Princess Mirabelle Diamond Ring in 18K White Gold

Princess Cura Diamond Ring in 18K Rose Gold

Shop princess diamond rings

A contemporary classic, the Princess Cut is both fashionable and elegant, with a clean, sparkling style that’s designed to last. It’s the best of both worlds for those who want the fire, brilliance and scintillation of a Round Brilliant in a neat, modern package.

A Princess Cut looks good on almost all hand types but is ideal for long fingers as the horizontal lines balance the vertical.

Shop princess diamond earrings

We have featured the following collection of princess cut diamond jewellery, which are all available to buy online:

  • Princess Cut Engagement Rings
  • Princess Cut Diamond Earrings
  • Princess Cut Diamond Pendants
  • Princess Cut Diamond Bracelets
  • Princess Cut Diamond Bangles
  • Princess Cut Eternity Rings

We also have an additional range to choose from, which we can source on request, so feel free to contact usif you can't find what you are looking for.

Of course, we are more than happy to help you design your own bespoke princess-cut diamond jewellery. Click here to find out more.

For more inspiration, why not follow us on Instagram @QualityDiamonds

All you need to know about Princess Cut Diamonds | Quality Diamonds (2024)

FAQs

All you need to know about Princess Cut Diamonds | Quality Diamonds? ›

Princess cut diamonds appear square from the face-up, but are shaped like inverted pyramids with two to four chevron patterns on the underside of the cut. They are the second most sought-after diamond in engagement rings only behind round brilliant cut diamonds.

What is all about princess cut diamonds? ›

Princess cut diamonds appear square from the face-up, but are shaped like inverted pyramids with two to four chevron patterns on the underside of the cut. They are the second most sought-after diamond in engagement rings only behind round brilliant cut diamonds.

What is more important in princess cut diamond? ›

The quality of cut for a princess cut diamond is going to be extremely important in delivering a beautiful, sparkly stone. Because of how much of the diamond rough is retained, a princess cut diamond requires higher depth percentages – between 69-76% – in order for it to exhibit excellent light return.

Why not buy a princess cut diamond? ›

Clarity, Color, Careless

One of the big bummers about princess cut diamonds is that they tend to show off inclusions and color a bit more than a round brilliant.

What is the ideal ratio for a princess cut diamond? ›

Princess cuts can be either square or rectangular. The ideal ratio, from length to width, of a square princess cut is 1.00 to 1.04. The ideal ratio of a rectangular princess cut is 1.07 to 1.15.

Do princess cut diamonds chip easily? ›

Due to its square shape, the pointed corners of a Princess cut diamond are prone to chipping or breaking. A 4 prong, Bezel, or Halo setting will protect a Princess diamond's edges. Appears smaller. “Due to their deeper pavillions, they do tend to face up smaller than most other shapes,” explains Chang.

Is princess cut diamond good investment? ›

With the cost of the rough the same for both, the bigger princess cut can be sold for same price as the smaller round, which is significantly less on a per carat basis. Therefore, buyers looking to get the biggest stone for the money often find princess cut diamonds to be of outstanding value.

What color is best for Princess diamond? ›

Color grade: For the best color in a princess diamond, go for a Colorless (D, E, F) or Near Colorless (G, H, I) grade. Clarity grade: Though princess diamonds are great at hiding inclusions, they can be prone to chipping if an inclusion is in one of the four sharp corners.

What is a good girdle on a princess cut diamond? ›

Princess Cut Diamond - Cut Guide
EXCELLENTVERY GOOD
Table %67 - 7259 - 66 or 73 - 75
Depth %64 - 75
GirdleVery Thin - Slightly Thick
CuletNoneVery Small
1 more row

How can you tell if a princess cut diamond is real? ›

Princess cut Diamond Ring in 4 Claw Setting

Fill up a glass about three quarters of the way up with water and drop in the loose stone. You'll be able to tell if the diamond is real as it will sink. If your loose stone floats underneath the surface of the water, it's a fake.

Are princess cuts out of style? ›

Princess cut diamonds make up roughly 15% of diamond sales today making them the second most popular choice for diamond engagement rings. Another heavy hitter in the sparkle department, ring designs featuring a square shape princess cut engagement rings are modern, chic and in high demand.

Why is princess cut so popular? ›

Brilliance – Princess cut diamonds usually have 50-58 facets, which means more light is reflected back to the viewer for the ultimate shimmer. This excellent clarity and luster make them a popular choice for brides-to-be looking for a uniform shape that really sparkles.

What does a princess cut diamond say about you? ›

Princess Diamond

Brides usually fall in love with this square shape, because they're looking for something traditional yet different. A woman with a princess cut diamond ring is considered clever and fun-loving.

Does a princess cut diamond look bigger? ›

Princess Cut

They have a modern and elegant look that is perfect for those who want something a little different. They're also less likely to chip or break than other shapes. Despite their longer diagonal measurements, princess cuts appear larger to the naked eye than round cuts since they have a greater surface area.

How fragile are princess cut diamonds? ›

Princess cut diamonds have one potential disadvantage: the fragile nature of their corners. Diamonds are the hardest naturally occurring material on earth, but they can still break. The pointed corners of a princess cut diamond are very thin, making them more susceptible to chipping.

Are Princess diamonds more expensive? ›

In fact, it is the most popular shape followed by the princess shape which comes in at second. While a princess cut diamond is considered a “fancy shape,” it is actually generally cheaper per carat than a round diamond.

Is princess cut better than round? ›

Although more affordable, princess diamonds refract less light than round diamonds. Although no diamond cut can refract all light, the optimal round brilliant cut is the industry-standard definition of 100%. Whereas the princess diamond has a refractive quality of 70%.

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