When you use DPReview links to buy products, the site may earn a commission.
","centerAdSlotHtml":"
","topAdSlotHtml":"
","slides":[{"title":"Introduction","url":"https://www.dpreview.com/techniques/8866192168/developing-film-at-home-everything-you-need-to-know-to-get-started","imageUrl":"https://1.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS590x394~articles/8866192168/Home-developing01.jpeg","imageSrcset":"https://2.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS1180x788~articles/8866192168/Home-developing01.jpeg 2x","imageWidth":590,"imageHeight":394,"thumbnailUrl":"https://2.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS120x80~articles/8866192168/Home-developing01.jpeg","thumbnailSrcset":"https://4.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS240x160~articles/8866192168/Home-developing01.jpeg 2x","thumbnailWidth":120,"thumbnailHeight":80,"filmstripUrl":"https://4.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS150x100~articles/8866192168/Home-developing01.jpeg","filmstripSrcset":"https://4.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS300x200~articles/8866192168/Home-developing01.jpeg 2x","filmstripWidth":150,"filmstripHeight":100,"originalUrl":"https://3.img-dpreview.com/files/p/articles/8866192168/Home-developing01.jpeg","originalWidth":2500,"originalHeight":1669,"contentHtml":"\n\n
If you're lucky enough to have some free hours in these uncertain times, there are a lot of ways you could spend them. How about learning how to develop your own film? Or maybe developing film is an activity you tried long ago and one you'd like to jump back into. After all, the smell of fixer singeing the nostrils can be quite an intoxicating/nostalgic aroma (Please do not smell the fixer).
\n
What follows is a quick and easy home developing guide that'll cover everything from supplies, to chemistry dilutions, to proper cleanup. So turn down your record player and grab a good old fashioned pencil and paper to take notes [glances at the sun dial] – it's developing time!
\n","mobileContentHtml":"\n\n
If you're lucky enough to have some free hours in these uncertain times, there are a lot of ways you could spend them. How about learning how to develop your own film? Or maybe developing film is an activity you tried long ago and one you'd like to jump back into. After all, the smell of fixer singeing the nostrils can be quite an intoxicating/nostalgic aroma (Please do not smell the fixer).
\n
What follows is a quick and easy home developing guide that'll cover everything from supplies, to chemistry dilutions, to proper cleanup. So turn down your record player and grab a good old fashioned pencil and paper to take notes [glances at the sun dial] – it's developing time!
\n","products":[]},{"title":"Reasons to develop at home","url":"https://www.dpreview.com/techniques/8866192168/developing-film-at-home-everything-you-need-to-know-to-get-started?slide=2","imageUrl":"https://2.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS590x394~articles/8866192168/Home-developing04.jpeg","imageSrcset":"https://3.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS1180x788~articles/8866192168/Home-developing04.jpeg 2x","imageWidth":590,"imageHeight":394,"thumbnailUrl":"https://3.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS120x80~articles/8866192168/Home-developing04.jpeg","thumbnailSrcset":"https://3.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS240x160~articles/8866192168/Home-developing04.jpeg 2x","thumbnailWidth":120,"thumbnailHeight":80,"filmstripUrl":"https://1.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS150x100~articles/8866192168/Home-developing04.jpeg","filmstripSrcset":"https://3.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS300x200~articles/8866192168/Home-developing04.jpeg 2x","filmstripWidth":150,"filmstripHeight":100,"originalUrl":"https://2.img-dpreview.com/files/p/articles/8866192168/Home-developing04.jpeg","originalWidth":2500,"originalHeight":1669,"contentHtml":"\n\n
But first, if you still need convincing, here's are some solid reasons to take the plunge into the wild DIY world of home developing:
\n
1. It's cheaper to set up a home developing kit than you may think. I was able to get everything I needed from a local brick and mortar store for ~$150. Obviously a lot of stores are closed right now, but you may pay even less sourcing items online, or second hand.
\n
2. Home developing is a hands-on experience that makes you better appreciate both the magic of photography and the wonder of chemistry. There's something really cool about seeing the image creation process from start to end. In short, you'll feel a bit like a mad scientist.
\n
3. If you are paying a lab to develop and scan your images right now, setting up a home lab can be a cheaper option in the long run. And even if labs are closed (as many are at the present time), you'll still be able to process your own images.
\n
4. It feels good to learn something new / do it yourself.
\n","mobileContentHtml":"\n\n
But first, if you still need convincing, here's are some solid reasons to take the plunge into the wild DIY world of home developing:
\n
1. It's cheaper to set up a home developing kit than you may think. I was able to get everything I needed from a local brick and mortar store for ~$150. Obviously a lot of stores are closed right now, but you may pay even less sourcing items online, or second hand.
\n
2. Home developing is a hands-on experience that makes you better appreciate both the magic of photography and the wonder of chemistry. There's something really cool about seeing the image creation process from start to end. In short, you'll feel a bit like a mad scientist.
\n
3. If you are paying a lab to develop and scan your images right now, setting up a home lab can be a cheaper option in the long run. And even if labs are closed (as many are at the present time), you'll still be able to process your own images.
\n
4. It feels good to learn something new / do it yourself.
\n","products":[]},{"title":"Best films to start with","url":"https://www.dpreview.com/techniques/8866192168/developing-film-at-home-everything-you-need-to-know-to-get-started?slide=3","imageUrl":"https://4.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS590x394~articles/8866192168/Home-developing06.jpeg","imageSrcset":"https://1.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS1180x788~articles/8866192168/Home-developing06.jpeg 2x","imageWidth":590,"imageHeight":394,"thumbnailUrl":"https://1.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS120x80~articles/8866192168/Home-developing06.jpeg","thumbnailSrcset":"https://1.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS240x160~articles/8866192168/Home-developing06.jpeg 2x","thumbnailWidth":120,"thumbnailHeight":80,"filmstripUrl":"https://3.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS150x100~articles/8866192168/Home-developing06.jpeg","filmstripSrcset":"https://1.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS300x200~articles/8866192168/Home-developing06.jpeg 2x","filmstripWidth":150,"filmstripHeight":100,"originalUrl":"https://4.img-dpreview.com/files/p/articles/8866192168/Home-developing06.jpeg","originalWidth":2500,"originalHeight":1669,"contentHtml":"\n\n
For the sake of this article, we'll concentrate on developing B&W film, as the process is easier to learn than it is for color. B&W film also tends to be more forgiving to exposure errors than color... not that you'll make any!
\n
Some good B&W films to start with include Kodak Tri-X, Kodak T-Max, Ilford HP-5 Plus and Ilford Delta 400. Be aware, there are B&W film stocks out there that are meant to be developed in color chemistry, like Ilford XP2. Avoid these.
\n","mobileContentHtml":"\n\n
For the sake of this article, we'll concentrate on developing B&W film, as the process is easier to learn than it is for color. B&W film also tends to be more forgiving to exposure errors than color... not that you'll make any!
\n
Some good B&W films to start with include Kodak Tri-X, Kodak T-Max, Ilford HP-5 Plus and Ilford Delta 400. Be aware, there are B&W film stocks out there that are meant to be developed in color chemistry, like Ilford XP2. Avoid these.
\n","products":[]},{"title":"Chemistry 101: The developing basics","url":"https://www.dpreview.com/techniques/8866192168/developing-film-at-home-everything-you-need-to-know-to-get-started?slide=4","imageUrl":"https://3.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS590x394~articles/8866192168/Home-developing07.jpeg","imageSrcset":"https://4.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS1180x788~articles/8866192168/Home-developing07.jpeg 2x","imageWidth":590,"imageHeight":394,"thumbnailUrl":"https://4.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS120x80~articles/8866192168/Home-developing07.jpeg","thumbnailSrcset":"https://2.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS240x160~articles/8866192168/Home-developing07.jpeg 2x","thumbnailWidth":120,"thumbnailHeight":80,"filmstripUrl":"https://2.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS150x100~articles/8866192168/Home-developing07.jpeg","filmstripSrcset":"https://2.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS300x200~articles/8866192168/Home-developing07.jpeg 2x","filmstripWidth":150,"filmstripHeight":100,"originalUrl":"https://1.img-dpreview.com/files/p/articles/8866192168/Home-developing07.jpeg","originalWidth":2500,"originalHeight":1669,"contentHtml":"\n\n
The process of developing film is actually quite straightforward. We'll go into more detail further into this article, but the basic steps go like this: Load your film into a lightproof tank and pour a series of chemicals in one after another, then wash, dry and scan.
\n
The two main chemicals involved in the process are developer, which does exactly what it sounds like, and fixer, which stabilizes the film after development. A stop bath rinse is done between the developing and fixing stage and a water rinse is done at the end.
\n","mobileContentHtml":"\n\n
The process of developing film is actually quite straightforward. We'll go into more detail further into this article, but the basic steps go like this: Load your film into a lightproof tank and pour a series of chemicals in one after another, then wash, dry and scan.
\n
The two main chemicals involved in the process are developer, which does exactly what it sounds like, and fixer, which stabilizes the film after development. A stop bath rinse is done between the developing and fixing stage and a water rinse is done at the end.
\n","products":[]},{"title":"What you'll need to assemble your home mini lab","url":"https://www.dpreview.com/techniques/8866192168/developing-film-at-home-everything-you-need-to-know-to-get-started?slide=5","imageUrl":"https://2.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS590x394~articles/8866192168/Home-developing08.jpeg","imageSrcset":"https://3.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS1180x788~articles/8866192168/Home-developing08.jpeg 2x","imageWidth":590,"imageHeight":394,"thumbnailUrl":"https://3.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS120x80~articles/8866192168/Home-developing08.jpeg","thumbnailSrcset":"https://3.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS240x160~articles/8866192168/Home-developing08.jpeg 2x","thumbnailWidth":120,"thumbnailHeight":80,"filmstripUrl":"https://1.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS150x100~articles/8866192168/Home-developing08.jpeg","filmstripSrcset":"https://3.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS300x200~articles/8866192168/Home-developing08.jpeg 2x","filmstripWidth":150,"filmstripHeight":100,"originalUrl":"https://2.img-dpreview.com/files/p/articles/8866192168/Home-developing08.jpeg","originalWidth":2500,"originalHeight":1669,"contentHtml":"\n\n
Here's what you'll need to set up your home developing kit: Concentrated developer, fixer and stop bath (optional - plain old water also works). Liquid concentration is easier to work with than powder and is also safer as there's no chance of particulate inhalation. You'll also want a wetting agent like Kodak Photo-flo (this is also optional but I find it helps negatives dry without watermarks), a developing tank with reels*, several plastic bottles to mix your dilutions in, measuring beakers, a funnel, a thermometer, a stop-watch/timer and a film squeegee. Many photography stores carry all these items.
\n
You'll also want a light-proof bag to load your reels, as well as a bottle opener and a sharp pair of scissors. The former is to pry open the film canister the latter is to cut the film (both while in the bag). Film clips are great for drying, but clothespins work well too. You'll also want plastic sleeves to store your negatives in once dried.
\n
*For those wishing to avoid the developing tank, all-in-one options like the the Lab-Box, may be your cup of tea. We can't vouch for its ease of use, but our pals over at Pop Photo seem to like it.
\n","mobileContentHtml":"\n\n
Here's what you'll need to set up your home developing kit: Concentrated developer, fixer and stop bath (optional - plain old water also works). Liquid concentration is easier to work with than powder and is also safer as there's no chance of particulate inhalation. You'll also want a wetting agent like Kodak Photo-flo (this is also optional but I find it helps negatives dry without watermarks), a developing tank with reels*, several plastic bottles to mix your dilutions in, measuring beakers, a funnel, a thermometer, a stop-watch/timer and a film squeegee. Many photography stores carry all these items.
\n
You'll also want a light-proof bag to load your reels, as well as a bottle opener and a sharp pair of scissors. The former is to pry open the film canister the latter is to cut the film (both while in the bag). Film clips are great for drying, but clothespins work well too. You'll also want plastic sleeves to store your negatives in once dried.
\n
*For those wishing to avoid the developing tank, all-in-one options like the the Lab-Box, may be your cup of tea. We can't vouch for its ease of use, but our pals over at Pop Photo seem to like it.
\n","products":[]},{"title":"Loading film onto reels","url":"https://www.dpreview.com/techniques/8866192168/developing-film-at-home-everything-you-need-to-know-to-get-started?slide=6","imageUrl":"https://3.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS589x394~articles/8866192168/Home-developing09.jpeg","imageSrcset":"https://3.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS1178x788~articles/8866192168/Home-developing09.jpeg 2x","imageWidth":589,"imageHeight":394,"thumbnailUrl":"https://2.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS120x80~articles/8866192168/Home-developing09.jpeg","thumbnailSrcset":"https://4.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS240x160~articles/8866192168/Home-developing09.jpeg 2x","thumbnailWidth":120,"thumbnailHeight":80,"filmstripUrl":"https://4.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS150x100~articles/8866192168/Home-developing09.jpeg","filmstripSrcset":"https://4.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS300x200~articles/8866192168/Home-developing09.jpeg 2x","filmstripWidth":150,"filmstripHeight":100,"originalUrl":"https://3.img-dpreview.com/files/p/articles/8866192168/Home-developing09.jpeg","originalWidth":2500,"originalHeight":1671,"contentHtml":"\n\n
There are a handful of companies that make film tanks and reels. In general though the plastic reels are MUCH easier to load than the metal ones. Of the popular plastic brands, I've found that Paterson Universal makes the easiest to load reels (avoid Omega brand reels).
\n
Once you've got your tank, I recommend practicing loading your reel with the lights on. Yes you will need to sacrifice a roll of film to do this, but it's worth it. Here are the basic steps/tips for loading:
\n
1. Pop open your film canister from the bottom using a bottle opener. It should not take much to pry the bottom cap off.
\n
2. Pull the film and spool out of the canister and trim off the film leader so that the roll ends in a straight cut line.
\n
 | \n
\n
3. Insert the freshly-cut end of the film roll into the reel. On a Paterson Universal reel the side in which you load the film is flat and the side it feeds out of is rounded; this makes it easy to load correctly in the dark. Once inserted, hold each side of the reel in either hand and gently twist the opposite direction until the reel hits a stopping point, then twist back; this should advance the film onto your reel one frame at a time.
\n
4. Count in your head how many times you do the above twisting action. When you get to 32 (assuming you're loading a 36 roll frame) unroll the rest of the film from your spool and cut it free - there's usually a small piece of tape attaching it.
\n
5. Proceed to load the last of the film.
\n
6. Insert the reel onto the tank's center column. Remember if you're only developing one reel to still use two reels in the tank with the loaded one on bottom.
\n","mobileContentHtml":"\n\n
There are a handful of companies that make film tanks and reels. In general though the plastic reels are MUCH easier to load than the metal ones. Of the popular plastic brands, I've found that Paterson Universal makes the easiest to load reels (avoid Omega brand reels).
\n
Once you've got your tank, I recommend practicing loading your reel with the lights on. Yes you will need to sacrifice a roll of film to do this, but it's worth it. Here are the basic steps/tips for loading:
\n
1. Pop open your film canister from the bottom using a bottle opener. It should not take much to pry the bottom cap off.
\n
2. Pull the film and spool out of the canister and trim off the film leader so that the roll ends in a straight cut line.
\n
| \n
\n
3. Insert the freshly-cut end of the film roll into the reel. On a Paterson Universal reel the side in which you load the film is flat and the side it feeds out of is rounded; this makes it easy to load correctly in the dark. Once inserted, hold each side of the reel in either hand and gently twist the opposite direction until the reel hits a stopping point, then twist back; this should advance the film onto your reel one frame at a time.
\n
4. Count in your head how many times you do the above twisting action. When you get to 32 (assuming you're loading a 36 roll frame) unroll the rest of the film from your spool and cut it free - there's usually a small piece of tape attaching it.
\n
5. Proceed to load the last of the film.
\n
6. Insert the reel onto the tank's center column. Remember if you're only developing one reel to still use two reels in the tank with the loaded one on bottom.
\n","products":[]},{"title":"The developing process - mixing up the chemistry","url":"https://www.dpreview.com/techniques/8866192168/developing-film-at-home-everything-you-need-to-know-to-get-started?slide=7","imageUrl":"https://2.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS590x394~articles/8866192168/Home-developing11.jpeg","imageSrcset":"https://1.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS1180x788~articles/8866192168/Home-developing11.jpeg 2x","imageWidth":590,"imageHeight":394,"thumbnailUrl":"https://1.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS120x80~articles/8866192168/Home-developing11.jpeg","thumbnailSrcset":"https://1.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS240x160~articles/8866192168/Home-developing11.jpeg 2x","thumbnailWidth":120,"thumbnailHeight":80,"filmstripUrl":"https://3.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS150x100~articles/8866192168/Home-developing11.jpeg","filmstripSrcset":"https://1.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS300x200~articles/8866192168/Home-developing11.jpeg 2x","filmstripWidth":150,"filmstripHeight":100,"originalUrl":"https://2.img-dpreview.com/files/p/articles/8866192168/Home-developing11.jpeg","originalWidth":2500,"originalHeight":1669,"contentHtml":"\n\n
Mixing up photo chemistry requires very little knowledge of chemistry itself. If you can follow the directions required to bake a cake, you can certainly mix up these chemical dilutions with no trouble.
\n
As mentioned, we recommend purchasing concentrated liquid chemicals and some plastic containers to store your dilution in (make sure the containers are photo chemical safe). Most chemistry comes with basic dilution guidelines printed on the bottle. For example I use Ilford Ilfotec DDX Developer, which requires a 1:4 dilution. Conveniently, this is the same dilution as the Ilford Rapid Fixer I use.
\n
When mixing up chemistry I like to make 60 fl oz of diluted developer, fixer and stop bath. This is roughly 3x times the amount of each chemical I need to process two rolls in my Paterson tank. Because I don't develop too often, I just pour the dilute chemistry back into its respective container after I'm done. The chemistry eventually expires, but it takes many rolls to get there. I also find it extremely helpful to write down the date and dilution of each chemical on its container.
\n
Once you have all your chemicals mixed up and in separate jugs, it's time to bust out the timer and get processing!
\n","mobileContentHtml":"\n\n
Mixing up photo chemistry requires very little knowledge of chemistry itself. If you can follow the directions required to bake a cake, you can certainly mix up these chemical dilutions with no trouble.
\n
As mentioned, we recommend purchasing concentrated liquid chemicals and some plastic containers to store your dilution in (make sure the containers are photo chemical safe). Most chemistry comes with basic dilution guidelines printed on the bottle. For example I use Ilford Ilfotec DDX Developer, which requires a 1:4 dilution. Conveniently, this is the same dilution as the Ilford Rapid Fixer I use.
\n
When mixing up chemistry I like to make 60 fl oz of diluted developer, fixer and stop bath. This is roughly 3x times the amount of each chemical I need to process two rolls in my Paterson tank. Because I don't develop too often, I just pour the dilute chemistry back into its respective container after I'm done. The chemistry eventually expires, but it takes many rolls to get there. I also find it extremely helpful to write down the date and dilution of each chemical on its container.
\n
Once you have all your chemicals mixed up and in separate jugs, it's time to bust out the timer and get processing!
\n","products":[]},{"title":"Developing, stopping, and fixing","url":"https://www.dpreview.com/techniques/8866192168/developing-film-at-home-everything-you-need-to-know-to-get-started?slide=8","imageUrl":"https://1.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS590x394~articles/8866192168/Home-developing12.jpeg","imageSrcset":"https://4.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS1180x788~articles/8866192168/Home-developing12.jpeg 2x","imageWidth":590,"imageHeight":394,"thumbnailUrl":"https://4.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS120x80~articles/8866192168/Home-developing12.jpeg","thumbnailSrcset":"https://2.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS240x160~articles/8866192168/Home-developing12.jpeg 2x","thumbnailWidth":120,"thumbnailHeight":80,"filmstripUrl":"https://2.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS150x100~articles/8866192168/Home-developing12.jpeg","filmstripSrcset":"https://2.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS300x200~articles/8866192168/Home-developing12.jpeg 2x","filmstripWidth":150,"filmstripHeight":100,"originalUrl":"https://3.img-dpreview.com/files/p/articles/8866192168/Home-developing12.jpeg","originalWidth":2500,"originalHeight":1669,"contentHtml":"\n\n
Printed on the bottom of most film tanks is how much fluid is required, depending on the number and/or type of film you are processing. My tank requires about 22 fl oz for two 35mm rolls of film.
\n
It's also important to figure how long you'll need to develop your film for. Many manufacturers include a list of developing agents and developing times on the inside of the film box. But if you tossed the box, worry not, the Massive Dev Chart is here to help. The temperature of the chemicals also affects developing time, so it's good thing you got that thermometer!
\n
Below are the basic steps for processing your roll:
\n
1. Pre-wash: This isn't completely necessary but there's no harm in washing your film before moving on to the chemistry.
\n
2. Developing time: Measure out your developer into a beaker and use the thermometer to find its temperature. The colder the developer, the longer the processing time. For instance if I'm processing a roll of Ilford HP-5 Plus in the aforementioned developer/dilution, I'm looking at nine minutes of developing time if the chemistry is 20 C / 68 F and closer to seven minutes if its 24 C / 75 F. Obviously if it's warmer or colder than that range, you can estimate your development time accordingly.
\n
3. Developing: Start your timer, pour in the developer, attach the tank's cap and shake gently for 30 seconds. After the first 30 seconds let the tank sit on the table, then shake for ten seconds at the start of each minute of developing. Tap the tank on the table after shaking each time to ensure there are no air bubbles.
\n
4. Stop-bath: Pour out your developer, pour in your stop bath dilution and replace the cap to the tank. Shake the tank for about ten seconds and then let it rest on the table for an additional 30 seconds (don't forget to tap for air bubbles). Pour the stop bath out and pour in your fixer.
\n
5. Fixer: Repeat the same shaking, tapping and resting process as you did with the developer for the fixer for 4-5 minutes. Then pour out the spent fixer and fill your tank with fresh water...
\n","mobileContentHtml":"\n\n
Printed on the bottom of most film tanks is how much fluid is required, depending on the number and/or type of film you are processing. My tank requires about 22 fl oz for two 35mm rolls of film.
\n
It's also important to figure how long you'll need to develop your film for. Many manufacturers include a list of developing agents and developing times on the inside of the film box. But if you tossed the box, worry not, the Massive Dev Chart is here to help. The temperature of the chemicals also affects developing time, so it's good thing you got that thermometer!
\n
Below are the basic steps for processing your roll:
\n
1. Pre-wash: This isn't completely necessary but there's no harm in washing your film before moving on to the chemistry.
\n
2. Developing time: Measure out your developer into a beaker and use the thermometer to find its temperature. The colder the developer, the longer the processing time. For instance if I'm processing a roll of Ilford HP-5 Plus in the aforementioned developer/dilution, I'm looking at nine minutes of developing time if the chemistry is 20 C / 68 F and closer to seven minutes if its 24 C / 75 F. Obviously if it's warmer or colder than that range, you can estimate your development time accordingly.
\n
3. Developing: Start your timer, pour in the developer, attach the tank's cap and shake gently for 30 seconds. After the first 30 seconds let the tank sit on the table, then shake for ten seconds at the start of each minute of developing. Tap the tank on the table after shaking each time to ensure there are no air bubbles.
\n
4. Stop-bath: Pour out your developer, pour in your stop bath dilution and replace the cap to the tank. Shake the tank for about ten seconds and then let it rest on the table for an additional 30 seconds (don't forget to tap for air bubbles). Pour the stop bath out and pour in your fixer.
\n
5. Fixer: Repeat the same shaking, tapping and resting process as you did with the developer for the fixer for 4-5 minutes. Then pour out the spent fixer and fill your tank with fresh water...
\n","products":[]},{"title":"Washing, drying and storing negatives","url":"https://www.dpreview.com/techniques/8866192168/developing-film-at-home-everything-you-need-to-know-to-get-started?slide=9","imageUrl":"https://4.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS590x394~articles/8866192168/Home-developing17.jpeg","imageSrcset":"https://3.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS1180x788~articles/8866192168/Home-developing17.jpeg 2x","imageWidth":590,"imageHeight":394,"thumbnailUrl":"https://3.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS120x80~articles/8866192168/Home-developing17.jpeg","thumbnailSrcset":"https://3.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS240x160~articles/8866192168/Home-developing17.jpeg 2x","thumbnailWidth":120,"thumbnailHeight":80,"filmstripUrl":"https://1.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS150x100~articles/8866192168/Home-developing17.jpeg","filmstripSrcset":"https://3.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS300x200~articles/8866192168/Home-developing17.jpeg 2x","filmstripWidth":150,"filmstripHeight":100,"originalUrl":"https://4.img-dpreview.com/files/p/articles/8866192168/Home-developing17.jpeg","originalWidth":2500,"originalHeight":1669,"contentHtml":"\n\n
6. Washing part 1: Once filled with fresh water, give the tank a good two minutes of shaking, then pour out the water. Repeat this process several times. Note: your film is fully-developed and light-safe at this point.
\n
7. Washing part 2: Twist off the top of the tank and let water run into it for five to ten minutes.
\n
8. Wetting agent: Dump out a little water, add a few drops of a wetting agent to the tank and screw the top back on (with cap attached). Shake for about five seconds and remove the screw top.
\n
9. Removing the film and squeegeeing: Remove your reels from the center column of the tank and twist in the same way you did when loading them, but do so beyond the initial stopping point. This should allow you to pull either side apart. Grab one end of the film and run a wet squeegee over it once or twice.
\n
10. Drying: Hang your film using clothespins or clips somewhere it won't be disturbed. Give the negatives about 12 hours to dry before cutting and inserting it into plastic film sleeves.
\n","mobileContentHtml":"\n\n
6. Washing part 1: Once filled with fresh water, give the tank a good two minutes of shaking, then pour out the water. Repeat this process several times. Note: your film is fully-developed and light-safe at this point.
\n
7. Washing part 2: Twist off the top of the tank and let water run into it for five to ten minutes.
\n
8. Wetting agent: Dump out a little water, add a few drops of a wetting agent to the tank and screw the top back on (with cap attached). Shake for about five seconds and remove the screw top.
\n
9. Removing the film and squeegeeing: Remove your reels from the center column of the tank and twist in the same way you did when loading them, but do so beyond the initial stopping point. This should allow you to pull either side apart. Grab one end of the film and run a wet squeegee over it once or twice.
\n
10. Drying: Hang your film using clothespins or clips somewhere it won't be disturbed. Give the negatives about 12 hours to dry before cutting and inserting it into plastic film sleeves.
\n","products":[]},{"title":"Cleaning up","url":"https://www.dpreview.com/techniques/8866192168/developing-film-at-home-everything-you-need-to-know-to-get-started?slide=10","imageUrl":"https://4.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS590x394~articles/8866192168/Home-developing13.jpeg","imageSrcset":"https://3.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS1180x788~articles/8866192168/Home-developing13.jpeg 2x","imageWidth":590,"imageHeight":394,"thumbnailUrl":"https://3.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS120x80~articles/8866192168/Home-developing13.jpeg","thumbnailSrcset":"https://3.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS240x160~articles/8866192168/Home-developing13.jpeg 2x","thumbnailWidth":120,"thumbnailHeight":80,"filmstripUrl":"https://1.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS150x100~articles/8866192168/Home-developing13.jpeg","filmstripSrcset":"https://3.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS300x200~articles/8866192168/Home-developing13.jpeg 2x","filmstripWidth":150,"filmstripHeight":100,"originalUrl":"https://4.img-dpreview.com/files/p/articles/8866192168/Home-developing13.jpeg","originalWidth":2500,"originalHeight":1669,"contentHtml":"\n\n
It probably goes without saying, but photo chemicals are toxic and you should avoid dumping them down the drain at all costs. Likewise, it's important to keep your work space clean and tidy. I personally like to work on a piece of plywood on saw horses that I break down each time after I'm done processing. This avoids getting chemistry on my work desk or kitchen table.
\n
Of the chemicals used for home developing, photo fixer presents the most environmental issues. Fortunately there are places happy to take it off your hands (for a small fee). Spent fixer contains valuable liquid silver which can be removed and recycled. Spent developer and stop bath can be taken to most household hazard waste processing locations. If you're unsure of the best way to dispose of chemicals, contact a local photo lab and ask for their recommendations.
\n","mobileContentHtml":"\n\n
It probably goes without saying, but photo chemicals are toxic and you should avoid dumping them down the drain at all costs. Likewise, it's important to keep your work space clean and tidy. I personally like to work on a piece of plywood on saw horses that I break down each time after I'm done processing. This avoids getting chemistry on my work desk or kitchen table.
\n
Of the chemicals used for home developing, photo fixer presents the most environmental issues. Fortunately there are places happy to take it off your hands (for a small fee). Spent fixer contains valuable liquid silver which can be removed and recycled. Spent developer and stop bath can be taken to most household hazard waste processing locations. If you're unsure of the best way to dispose of chemicals, contact a local photo lab and ask for their recommendations.
\n","products":[]},{"title":"Scanning/digitizing","url":"https://www.dpreview.com/techniques/8866192168/developing-film-at-home-everything-you-need-to-know-to-get-started?slide=11","imageUrl":"https://1.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS590x394~articles/8866192168/Home-developing16.jpeg","imageSrcset":"https://4.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS1180x788~articles/8866192168/Home-developing16.jpeg 2x","imageWidth":590,"imageHeight":394,"thumbnailUrl":"https://4.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS120x80~articles/8866192168/Home-developing16.jpeg","thumbnailSrcset":"https://2.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS240x160~articles/8866192168/Home-developing16.jpeg 2x","thumbnailWidth":120,"thumbnailHeight":80,"filmstripUrl":"https://2.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS150x100~articles/8866192168/Home-developing16.jpeg","filmstripSrcset":"https://2.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS300x200~articles/8866192168/Home-developing16.jpeg 2x","filmstripWidth":150,"filmstripHeight":100,"originalUrl":"https://3.img-dpreview.com/files/p/articles/8866192168/Home-developing16.jpeg","originalWidth":2500,"originalHeight":1669,"contentHtml":"\n\n
Once your negatives are dried it's time to digitize them. There are numerous ways to scan film and varying opinions about which methods are best. I personally use an Epson V-series scanner that can do 12 frames of 35mm in one go. These scanners are reasonably-priced, fairly quick to scan and offer decent output - read our Epson V600 review.
\n
Another fairly-easy scanning methods involves using a camera and macro lens, diffused light source and some sort of film holder like the Pixl-latr or Nikons's ES-2.
\n","mobileContentHtml":"\n\n
Once your negatives are dried it's time to digitize them. There are numerous ways to scan film and varying opinions about which methods are best. I personally use an Epson V-series scanner that can do 12 frames of 35mm in one go. These scanners are reasonably-priced, fairly quick to scan and offer decent output - read our Epson V600 review.
\n
Another fairly-easy scanning methods involves using a camera and macro lens, diffused light source and some sort of film holder like the Pixl-latr or Nikons's ES-2.
\n","products":[]},{"title":"Conclusion: Tips for success","url":"https://www.dpreview.com/techniques/8866192168/developing-film-at-home-everything-you-need-to-know-to-get-started?slide=12","imageUrl":"https://3.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS590x394~articles/8866192168/Home-developing14.jpeg","imageSrcset":"https://2.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS1180x788~articles/8866192168/Home-developing14.jpeg 2x","imageWidth":590,"imageHeight":394,"thumbnailUrl":"https://2.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS120x80~articles/8866192168/Home-developing14.jpeg","thumbnailSrcset":"https://4.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS240x160~articles/8866192168/Home-developing14.jpeg 2x","thumbnailWidth":120,"thumbnailHeight":80,"filmstripUrl":"https://4.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS150x100~articles/8866192168/Home-developing14.jpeg","filmstripSrcset":"https://4.img-dpreview.com/files/p/E~TS300x200~articles/8866192168/Home-developing14.jpeg 2x","filmstripWidth":150,"filmstripHeight":100,"originalUrl":"https://1.img-dpreview.com/files/p/articles/8866192168/Home-developing14.jpeg","originalWidth":2500,"originalHeight":1669,"contentHtml":"\n\n
As is the case with anything DIY, there's going to be a large degree of trial and error involved in your process. I've tried my best to lay out all the basics that I've learned over the years, but it should got without saying that your mileage may vary.
\n
That said, here's a few final tips to help you succeed, based on my own trial and error:
\n
1. Write down each step of the developing process as it pertains to your chemistry and the kinds of film you shoot. You'll find yourself referencing this every time you go to develop.
\n
2. Try your best to avoid getting finger prints on the film while loading and opt to load in a proper lightproof bag over a seemingly dark room.
\n
3. Don't be skimpy with the fixing time. If the film spends a little too much time in the fixer it won't have any real negative impact, but too little will.
\n
4. Give your film enough time to dry or it'll get stuck in the plastic film sleeves.
\n
5. Accept dust as a natural part of the life of a film shooter.
\n
6. Consider wearing gloves unless you like the smell of fixer on your fingers for days (I do).
\n
That pretty much sums up our home developing guide! If there's something crucial you feel we've left out, or if you have any additional tips, feel free to mention them in the comments below. Happy developing!
\n
\n
Want more analog fun? Check out the DPReview Film Photography Forum.
","mobileContentHtml":"\n\n
As is the case with anything DIY, there's going to be a large degree of trial and error involved in your process. I've tried my best to lay out all the basics that I've learned over the years, but it should got without saying that your mileage may vary.
\n
That said, here's a few final tips to help you succeed, based on my own trial and error:
\n
1. Write down each step of the developing process as it pertains to your chemistry and the kinds of film you shoot. You'll find yourself referencing this every time you go to develop.
\n
2. Try your best to avoid getting finger prints on the film while loading and opt to load in a proper lightproof bag over a seemingly dark room.
\n
3. Don't be skimpy with the fixing time. If the film spends a little too much time in the fixer it won't have any real negative impact, but too little will.
\n
4. Give your film enough time to dry or it'll get stuck in the plastic film sleeves.
\n
5. Accept dust as a natural part of the life of a film shooter.
\n
6. Consider wearing gloves unless you like the smell of fixer on your fingers for days (I do).
\n
That pretty much sums up our home developing guide! If there's something crucial you feel we've left out, or if you have any additional tips, feel free to mention them in the comments below. Happy developing!
\n
\n
Want more analog fun? Check out the DPReview Film Photography Forum.
","products":[]}],"currentSlideIndex":0,"imageViewerIndex":null,"slideshowWidth":590,"slideshowHeight":394,"disableImageZoomInSlideshow":false,"fullContent":"TODO"}); if(typeof BeerSlider == 'function') { $(".beer-slider"). each(function() { new BeerSlider(this); }); } });
Now reading: Developing film at home: everything you need to know to get started 298 comments
Introduction
If you're lucky enough to have some free hours in these uncertain times, there are a lot of ways you could spend them. How about learning how to develop your own film? Or maybe developing film is an activity you tried long ago and one you'd like to jump back into. After all, the smell of fixer singeing the nostrils can be quite an intoxicating/nostalgic aroma (Please do not smell the fixer).
What follows is a quick and easy home developing guide that'll cover everything from supplies, to chemistry dilutions, to proper cleanup. So turn down your record player and grab a good old fashioned pencil and paper to take notes [glances at the sun dial] – it's developing time!
Tags: analog, film, film-development
View Comments (298)
Comments
All (298)
Most popular (15)
Editors' picks (0)
DPR staff (0)
Oldest first
On my first day in this advertising company, I was mixing chemicals and reached over for the stop bath, acidic acid. I dropped the bottle, well that cleared out the building. The fire department showed up, I asked to use the self contained breathing apparatus and cleaned up my mess. What a way to start off in my new job…
Like
Aug 18, 2021permalink
I still remember the chemical smell on my hands from my darkroom days in the late 70s. I just had my first roll developed from my cleaned and repaired Yashica FX-2. For 14 bucks and an hour and a half wait, I received my negatives in plastic sleeves and scanned to digital images on my USB drive. After reading this... I'll pay them to do it. I couldn't wash that smell off my hands.
Like
May 7, 2021permalink
The proper term and process is called agitation, not shaking.
This is a critical step which should have been explained, especially if using a wetting agent as shaking it like a Polaroid picture will result in a foamy bubble bath!
On a pedantic note, I recently switched from steel to JOBO reels after 40 years developing film. A side note in JOBO literature, a rare object, claims that wetting agent will eventually gunk up plastic reels as that product is not water soluble (read the SDS if you don't believe me). In an abundance of caution I now final wash with distilled water and have no water spots at all. I have also ditched the sponge tongs/squeegee as I have seen far too many scratches and little benefit from using it, especially now that I have switched over to distilled water only.
Love the plywood tip, going to grab a piece right now and process more film!
Like
1
Apr 1, 2021permalink
My daughter emailed me all excited when she read this. (She's been wanting to try film because it's so "retro" at school):
Her: "Dad! There's film processing instructions on DPR! I can try film now!"
Me: "There's film processing instructions in my head! All you have to do is ask!"
Her: "You know how to process film?"
Me: "Yep. All the cameras in the display case downstairs are film!"
Her: "Cool! Can I borrow one?"
Me: "Sure! All you have to do is sit and listen to me reminisce about all my hours in the darkroom."
Her: "Uhhh, can I borrow some money to buy a film camera?" 🤣🤣🤣
Like
2
Apr 1, 2021permalink
I took my kids shopping at Target and I ran into a very old film shooting buddy I hadn't seen in forever. We started talking about shooting digital vs film, and my youngest looks at the other two and "Ohhhhh, noooooo!" and my other daughter said, "YOU'RE the one that just had to go to Target!" I dragged them to Starbucks with my buddy to continue reminiscing as punishment! 😆😆🤣
Like
Aug 15, 2021permalink
I worked in a portrait studio, 1964, processed sheet film by hand, I could run 12-15 8x10’s prints in the soup, great times. I miss the long hours of darkroom time, that was tranquility...now, bam! Here’s your shots on your computer, select, delete, ready to go. The younger generation, should delve into the art of darkroom work, it’ll give them an appreciation of the exposure...
Like
3
Mar 29, 2021permalink
It's funny how we prided ourselves on our darkroom feats during the good 'ol film days. 😄 I used to get the most choice (or difficult) assignments because I could process Tri-X in very diluted D-76 and little agitation to get acceptable images for newsprint at 3200 ASA (well, now called ISO😉). I didn't share my secret with the other photographers until I was leaving for another position. I first learned it from an old photographer I met while working at a photo store, but I told them I developed it after years of experimenting! 🤣
Like
Aug 15, 2021permalink
I use to soup over 100 rolls a night 72 reels per E2 process with reverse exposure in the middle of it. my fingers were darkened by the chemistry. Although I loved the experience, I'm glad not to do lab work ever again. Long live electronic images and PS!!!!
Like
3
Mar 28, 2021permalink
Way back in my Freshman year of high school, my mom accused me of smoking because my finger tips were stained by Kodak Indicator Stop Bath! I had to show her the bottle before she'd believe me! 😂
Like
Aug 15, 2021permalink
look how pretty that 40mm f 2 rokkor M looks on that pretty leica
very few cameras have this style and beautiful distribution of levers and viewfinders
dials .... some people people think this looks old fashion ... but truly ..its simply good design
Like
4
Mar 28, 2021*permalink
Brings back memories. The craziest place I developed a roll of B&W film: A hotel bathroom on Waikiki Beach back on my senior high school trip in the mid-70's. It came out just fine, even with all of the bathroom door light leaks. The good old days of photo-chemical photography. I'm glad we graduated to digital today, but I do miss the darkroom simply for nostalgia's sake.
Like
4
Mar 28, 2021permalink
Coincidently I have been scanning some B&W film I developed in 1979. Ilford FP4 which I probably shot and developed tot 160 ASA. Using an Epson V750 scanner I can see the film grain.
None of the simulated film grain filters I see in programs like Capture 1 and LR look anything like it so there is something to be said for it. It offers a different look.
Like
2
Mar 30, 2021permalink
I used a small bathroom totally blacked out instead of a bag. Wetting agent is absolutely crucial. I used Kodak D76 fine grain developer. Used to store it in a tiny fridge as I live in India. It used to be a thrill every occasion. The negatives used to go straight to contact sheet printer!
Like
2
Mar 27, 2021permalink
A couple of tips I used. I didn't have a changing bag so used a jacket inside out, zippered up and inserted my arms through the sleeves. Never failed. Wetting agent? I used a tiny amount of washing up liquid. I dried the strips by pinning them to a doorframe.
Like
4
Mar 27, 2021permalink
The plastic reels were terrible in comparison to Kindermann reels. Well made and very durable stainless steel. Their tanks and lids were much better than the copycats still found on the market.
Of course if you drop them they can bend. But then they can be bent back
Like
4
Mar 27, 2021*permalink
I've never liked the plastic reels; learned on steel reels. Unfortunately when I got a Jobo CPP processor I had to use the Patterson plastic reels - until I found the rare special steel reels and inserts for the Jobo tanks - so problem solved until I went to a fully-automatic Phototerhm Sidekick processor - back to the plastic Patterson reels! The problem with the plastic reels was the film edges binding while feeding the film onto the reels. Finally solved that problem with the inexpensive little do-hicky that rounds off the corners at the front of the strip - and viola! Problem with plastic reels solved.
Like
Mar 27, 2021*permalink
@MichaelfirstLight. In my lab we hand developed all customer film in SS reels and tanks. We got a PhotoTherm to handle larger volumes. While it was reliable, we were always nervous about failure. Machine failure in a photo lab is a given. Not if, but when. Not always catastrophic if prepared but we switched back to hand processing for B&W for security and also the ease of accommodating custom processing requests.
Like
2
Mar 27, 2021permalink
Yep the square edges would get stuck in the plastic reels and once that happens, you can have a problem in the dark or in a changing bag. If one is going to use plastic reels, snip off and slightly round the corners and that solves the problem. Plastic reels if not perfectly dry will also cause the film to bind. Stainless reels for 35 mm are much better. For 120 roll film, plastic reels make some sense but not for 35 mm.
Like
2
Mar 27, 2021permalink
Never had any issue with Paterson "auto load" plastic reals. Just do the twisting motion and it works fine.
Developed literally thousands of B&W and colour slide films using my trusty tank which I still have.
Like
1
Mar 30, 2021permalink
Times have changed since the 70/80ties when I developed and printed all my own B/W films. Here, after developing comes.................scanning?
Like
3
Mar 26, 2021*permalink
Left off of advantages: A major point of using the Zone System is that you can over or under-expose your shot, and then do the reverse (ie, under or over-develop) while processing your film.
I would *NEVER* squeegee a wet negative. Negatives are reasonably robust. But, when wet, are very very delicate on one side of the negative. I've developed more than 3000 rolls of film (but thousands of 4x5 negatives. For film, I've run (gently!!!) the film between two fingers, and then left the final drying to the air. If you use a squeegee, you can easily ruin the negative if you press too hard. If you press down with the right pressure, but there's a tiny bit of dirt (ect) on the blade of the squeegee...another ruined negative. In one of my photography classes, I saw a group of students use one squeegee on all their negatives. That bit of dirt gouged a thin line down the middle of every shot, on every roll of film...and no one noticed until the next day, when the negs were fully dry.
Like
9
Mar 26, 2021permalink
Agree. Don't squeeze the negatives. Just put on the meeting agent and let them hang too dry.
Like
2
Mar 26, 2021permalink
The Zone System is useful for sheet film but on roll film *all* the frames get the same processing.
Like
3
Mar 27, 2021permalink
PhotoMonkey,
Absolutely right. My film camera (Canon 1v) has the rewind feature that leaves a bit of the film leader out. So, when I take my camera with me on travels, it's very common for me to have a roll that is 12/36 exposed already, at normal exposure, another roll at 2 stops under-exposed, with 7/36 exposed already, and so on. Important thing is to, after rewinding your film, to *immediately write down (on the canister) how many exposures you've already shot. Later, when you want that -2 film again, you know to insert it, leave the lens cap on, and "shoot" those 7 frames, to get to the unused negatives...and I always shoot an extra 'blank' frame, to give me a safety margin. It's always worked fine for me.
But yes, it's much much easier when shooting 4x5 film. :-)
Like
3
Mar 27, 2021*permalink
The Zone systems is wonderful if not a bit difficult for most - and B&W film blows digital out of the water on retaining detail and tonal detail in highlights - it's not even a contest. If you are also a skilled film printer, combining Zone with split-grade printing makes you a B&W analog imaging master.
Like
Mar 27, 2021permalink
In my experience the scan results from an Epson flatbed with 35mm aren't going to be very good. There's certainly a huge difference between my V550 and the Pacific Image XAs that I finally got to replace it. Stay away from fixed-focus flatbeds. It's rare for the film to be on an exact plane and for there to be no focus inconsistencies.
Like
2
Mar 26, 2021permalink
I am currently scanning some B&W film on an Espson V750. No issues. Just experimented with the spacers on the film holders and it's fine.
It helps the negatives have been correctly stored and are flat.
Like
Mar 30, 2021permalink
Seems like they forgot a very important initial step: Turn off the lights!
The article does not really say that you need to load the film into the tank in total darkness (whether that is a dark room or a changing bag).
Like
3
Mar 26, 2021permalink
Also, after spooling the film onto the Paterson reels and putting them in the tank, don't forget that little black pipe/cone shaped thing that goes in the center, before you put the lids on. Doing so will fog and ruin half the roll of film.. ask me how I know this :-O
Like
1
Mar 26, 2021permalink
Don’t put scissors in the bag; you’’ll inevitably end up scratching the film and it’s unnecessary.
Unroll the film and feed the square end in first.
Like
2
Mar 26, 2021permalink
The negatives in frame 9 look streaky, probably from overly aggressive agitation during development. It's a good idea to agitate gently, so that the developer doesn't pump through the sprocket holes. In my film days (admittedly long ago), I found that two gentle inversions of the tank every 60 seconds were sufficient.
Like
4
Mar 26, 2021permalink
Having done it for 30 years in high school, college and professional darkrooms, I can tell you the one thing you should know about developing your own film is that:
1. it is a royal pain in the back side. Also,
2. disposal of the chemistry responsibly is not trivial and most yahoos WILL just dump it down the drain. This is multiplied when you make prints. Also,
3. Developing by hand, some images WILL be ruined by uneven agitation, bubbles, swirls. Also,
4. Your negatives and transparencies will become scratched and degrade over time every time you handle them. Also,
5. The process uses a LOT of water. Bear this in mind if your area is prone to drought.
Okay. That’s more than one thing.
I feel like a grinch griping about other peoples hobbies but having shot both film and digital professionally for so long, in my opinion conventional film offers no advantages over digital image capture and production that outweigh its problems.
Like
6
Mar 26, 2021*permalink
I mostly agree, although I didn’t have problems with lost images. Then again, I didn’t process that many rolls.
The true magic is making prints with an enlarger (which is a much bigger pain in the ass, requires a darkroom—which either has to be set up and put away each time or occupies a room), has a $$$ setup cost, etc.) BUT you literally get to see the images form with your eyes, and you can manipulate the outcome with exposure (dodge and burn) and timing the removal of the print from the developer.
Developing film is just a chore. There’s no creativity.
Like
1
Mar 26, 2021*permalink
I pour the chemicals on my neighbors fence line to kill his invasive kudzu. Works great.
Like
5
Mar 26, 2021permalink
Ad 2: Most Developers are completely fine to be disposed down the drain. As for the fixer, it depends on the amount and the local water sewage treatment. Where I live, the recycling centre doesn't even want it anymore and it's okay to dump it down the drain. Compared to the amount of silver that's ending up in sewage plants from water filters etc an amateur lab with a few rolls a month really is of no concern.
Like
3
Mar 26, 2021permalink
I am now at an age where I can say I have done this for 50 years.
While the possibility of streaks and bubbles from uneven agitation are possible, using good technique it is not an issue. We have literally millions of extant negatives that are evidence of this.
It is only a pain if you never liked it. I always found it a restful and contemplative activity even if we were on deadline. Exactly no one could bother us unless the building was on fire.
Like
5
Mar 27, 2021permalink
"There's something really cool about seeing the image creation process from start to end."
No you won't. It's light sensitive stuff, so don't look at it! [ ;-) ] That's just why I didn't like it that much. You had to do a lot of things and only then see the result. (And try to find out what went wrong)
Digital came with Ctrl-Z. I love that.
Like
Mar 26, 2021*permalink
Thank you for your site. Digital is not archival,film is.
Like
3
Feb 26, 2021permalink
I wonder how much energy and resources go into making the stream of computers, hard drives, monitors, keyboards, mice, etc. required to long term maintain a digital archive; versus how much energy and resources go into making the film, chemicals, paper, and storage media (books, negative holders, scrapbooks etc).
Sincere question, not a dig at either medium.
Edit: almost forgot the stream of ever-advancing digital cameras (assuming you stay in the same system, lenses can last forever); versus film where the camera is probably old already, and replacement used ones are a click away on eBay versus making another new one.
Like
2
Mar 26, 2021*permalink
Digital is more archival than film. Everything degrades and there are chemicals and pollutants in the air and storage materials that will eventually destroy everything. With digital you are able to make exact copies of your original image on multiple forms of media and store those copies in multiple locations. You can also keep making new copies on different media as technology changes to ensure your digital data can continue being read. Compare that to film where most images on early color film were lost due to dye breakdown. Most motion pictures (shot of film) from the first half of the 20th century were lost due to film decay (or sometimes thrown away for storage needs). Of course film can have it's contents transferred to new film but that is much more difficult and will lose more quality than a digital transfer. As digital technologies continue to advance and film technologies don't the advantages of digital mediums for archival duties will only grow.
Like
1
Mar 26, 2021permalink
Your photos from 1886 are not likely in the same condition as when new. Over time they will continue to degrade. Do you have the negatives (or plates depending on how they were created) for them? If you re-photograph them using film you will lose quality in the new photo, and that will happen again and again as each generation degrades.
When I shot Tri-X I had great results exposing at ISO 200 and developing for 6 min in Rodinal 1:50 with 5 sec agitation per minute at 68F, and printing on #4 paper. It gave me a flat, low-grain negative that printed beautifully on the high-contrast paper. I learned that grain comes from over-developing the film, not printing on contrasty paper. Of course, the point is to find out what you like and do it. For studio portraits I loved Agfapan 25 dev'd in Rodinal 5 min with 5 sec agitation per min and printed on whatever grade paper worked best for the subject.
Like
2
Jan 8, 2021permalink
I still have a bottle of Rodinal (just in case I get the film urge), gone as black as Orcs blood, but still potent. I did a lot of Tri-X in dilute Rodinal 1:100 and mixed speed on the same roll, ISO160 to ISO1600. Developed using a semi-stand method and had great results. Did the same with HC-110 (still have a bottle just in case). I preferred the result from HC-110 but medium format HP5+ in Rodinal was wonderful.
A beginners thinking is a film's box speed is absolute, it isn't, the box speed is nominal and rather flexible.
Like
2
Mar 26, 2021permalink
Rodinal behaves like a compensating developer at higher dilutions and thus will give you that long tonal scale that prints so well. Low contrast is a very good strategy as it is far easier to raise contrast in printing than to reduce it. For roll film this gives you a lot of flexibility.
Diafine is also a compensating developer and has the additional benefit of being largely temperature insensitive. Super easy developer for multiple speeds at the same time.
Like
Mar 27, 2021*permalink
Never did try Diafine (perhaps next time if still available). I also liked Pyro, Tanol and Dixactol. FP4+ in dilute Rodinal also gave excellent results. Huge dynamic range. I only ever managed to get two rolls of Plus X, that was a good film.
I did try a few rolls of the Chinese Lucky film, had a clear acetate base and no anti halation layer. The results had a certain glow about them with grain as large as golf balls. Ah, those were the days.
Like
Mar 27, 2021permalink
Developing black & white film is no big thing. But printing is. That's where its art is.
I don't see the point in shooting b&w film, developing it, then scanning on a lousy flat bed scanner.
Like
5
Sep 12, 2020permalink
True. No in-jet print comes remotely close to a properly printed silver gelatin fiber-based paper print - it's a whole other level higher. Digital on metal is also wonderful, but its prohibitively expensive and is still an entirely different look.
Like
1
Mar 27, 2021permalink
@Kursun, Yes, printing was/is where the skill and art is. People say “you can do in the darkroom what you can in photoshop”. It is a really ignorant and crass atitude and usually held by people that 1) justify their photoshop wizardry and more important 2) have never tried printing and have probably never been inside a darkroom.
Doing the simplest edits in Fauxtoshop becomes a highly skilled job in the darkroom. Good printing is bloody difficult.
Like
1
Mar 27, 2021permalink
@Kursun, Yes, printing was/is where the skill and art is. People say “you can do in the darkroom what you can in photoshop”. It is a really ignorant and crass atitude and usually held by people that 1) justify their photoshop wizardry and more important 2) have never tried printing and have probably never been inside a darkroom.
Doing the simplest edits in Fauxtoshop becomes a highly skilled job in the darkroom. Good printing is bloody difficult.
Like
Mar 27, 2021permalink
I love developing film. It's a joy. I can walk through it with my eyes closed, quite frankly. A special time. I like the chemicals, I like handling the film, I like the metal tanks, the clock-work timer and I like looking at it when it's dry - against a desk light or with a loupe on a lightbox. Scanning and/or printing and seeing the results is both tactile and wonderful.
It's a great impetus to taking some photographs - for the pleasure and excitement of the process and the end result. I never fail to be surprised and fascinated by the end result. WYS-IS-NOT-WYG. That's the magic.
Like
6
Apr 8, 2020permalink
slides 4& 5 is why I don't develop my own film. My local lab said they do the proper environmental disposal of these chemicals. I then do scan the negative they develop for me. I don't shoot film much anymore because of the chemical.
Like
Apr 8, 2020permalink
I’m loving this return to film. Some cheap old gear nabbed on eBay can really scratch that gassy itch too. I’ve bought some of the cameras I lusted over as a teenager. It’s not going to replace my digital cameras or even my phone but it’s fun when you’ve got some time to kill under lockdown. Just wish I could get out and go take a few more - hopefully soon.
The old cameras are also works of art in the way the all the digital wannabes never will be.
Like
4
Apr 5, 2020permalink
As a teenager I lusted after the unobtainable (on my budget) Minolta Maxxum 7000. Decades later I picked one up, with two lenses, for about $25 at a thrift store. Threw some AAs and a roll of film at it.. and that old Minolta really lived up to the hype!
I shot some of my cousin's wedding with it, and have really enjoyed the Ilford black and white pics from it.
Like
2
Mar 26, 2021permalink
Thank you very much for this interesting article.
But to be honest i think for a starter it is still to complicated.
When i started with film developing on my own, it was very confusing, because i found multiple detailed descriptions like this one, which where contradicting each other. And i didnt know what was really important and what not.
I think for the very first few rolls of film it is OK to develope them really easy, without any extras, like exact temperature and stopper and such.
It helped me back then very much, when i found a description, where someone wrote something like:
Forget all the complicated stuff. Just use 10ml Rodinal in a 1+25 Dillution and a Fixer, nothing else. And use water for developing which was stored in a living room for 24 hours, dont even use a thermometer. And develope for 10 min with some kind of movement, no matter which film and look what you get.
From there i could start and improve. But it was really nice to have an easy and quick start.
Like
1
Apr 2, 2020permalink
The line dance for developing was pretty set. D76 1:1, about 8 minutes with agitation every 30 seconds for 5 sec, pour in stop for 30 second with continuous agitation and fix for 7 to 8 with agitation every 30 seconds for 5 seconds. Wash for 30 minutes and then photo flo and then hang to dry. All water temp at 68 deg F. Development time compensated for other temps. There were even dials in the Kodak Darkroom Book to give you equivalent times at different temps.
Yea too rigid and I personally didn't like the results of D76. Good old dilute Rodinal. Usable at dilutions of 1:25 to 1:100. It was pretty temp insensitive. It was easy and gave good consistent results. As far as agitation - slosh the tank around every once in awhile - that was good. Rodinal kept forever in the original bottle. For 35 mm and roll film - it was the "magic elixir." For sheet film good old Rodinal at 1:25 for normal contrast scenes and 1:50 for high contrast.
Like
2
Apr 3, 2020permalink
@Truman Prevatt
I'm loose and relaxed, whatever developer Rodinal, Silvermax, D96 or HC110, for example. I get the important things right and the rest follows naturally. It's not a line dance, you just need to measure the current temperature of the developer and adjust the time using a simple online calculator. 10 seconds of inversions each minute. Nothing hard about that and then the second two baths do not even need to be exact temperatures, just within a few degrees of each other.
It's true – it does need to be a 'line-dance' as you describe. it's just a basis to work to which you can relax about as you get confident. It sounds like you have reached that stage yourself.
I think I could do it in my sleep.
Like
Apr 8, 2020*permalink
Someone in the comments was wondering why shoot film today.
For me, the only reason is to shoot and enlarge b&w images on photographic paper.
While I enjoyed this article, I wonder what’s the point to shoot films if it’s to scan them into digital files.
Taste is personal and I respect everyone’s, but I really dislike the look and feel of inkjet b&w prints. They leave me totally cold.
To me no inkjet b&w image has the aesthetics and feel of a silver gelatin print. That feeling was recently reinforced when I visited a unique exhibit of photographs of 20th Century Japan from the Yokohama Museum of Art at the National Gallery of Canada, in Ottawa.
That exhibit revived my desire to shoot film again.
If you have a chance to see it somewhere when life has gone back to normal, don’t miss it!
Here is the link : https://www.gallery.ca/whats-on/exhibitions-and-galleries/hanran-20th-century-japanese-photography
Cheers to everyone in these difficult times!
Like
2
Apr 2, 2020permalink
Thank You DP for doing this. I did learn something. I’m searching for a light proof bag.
~Bill
Like
Apr 2, 2020permalink
"Seen that, been there" - and I'm very happy I do not have to return.
Of course working in a too small darkroom and the irritating smell of chemicals was quite exotic. Some 35 years was/is enough
This article - thanks - made me very happy. I really like sitting with my iMac with visible sun shining out there.
Like
4
Apr 2, 2020permalink
"4. Give your film enough time to dry or it'll get stuck in the plastic film sleeves."
I never saw that one before 😀 and I studied Materials and Process at RIT in the early 70s.
Like
Apr 2, 2020permalink
Actually, this just happened to me last weekend... Trying to put the film into the sleeve, the emulsion side stuck to the plastic. Fortunately I noticed early enough. After letting the film dry overnight it was just fine.
Like
2
Apr 3, 2020permalink
I've been shooting and developing film for a few years now. Mostly black and white, with occasional color C-41 process commercial developed film like Portra. A few comments about the article: using the word Shake to describe the action of moving the solution around the film during developing and fixing is inaccurate. More like slowly tipping back and forth. You mention Massive Dev as a helpful resource. It is an app that I use on my iPad during developing that is very helpful. It's a timer and an encyclopedia of knowledge about films and various chemistry depending on how the film was shot, i.e. at what speed.
Like
1
Apr 2, 2020permalink
Also, you've probably heard of rubber gloves. These are very helpful when playing with chemicals. As to water, I have always used distilled water to mix chemicals, as this prevents streaks from the hard water in our area. Also, you don't mention how to heat water to 20 or 24 degrees. I do it by putting the developer, stop bath and fixer, in their own measuring cups, in a large measuring cup of hot water, and waiting for the thermometer to tell me when they are warm enough.
Film is just different than digital. Different to shoot, different to process. Just different. There's really no point in comparing the two or trying to decide which is better.
Like
2
Apr 2, 2020permalink
How many people would rather process film pictures vs digital pictures?
How much does it costs to process 1,000 digital pictures vs film pictures?
I wonder why anyone makes film or film cameras today, what would be the reason?
Like
Apr 2, 2020permalink
For the same reason I own a state-of-the-art crossbow that shoots 430 feet per second, and I also own a 70# draw weight recurve bow and arrow. Or for the same reason I shoot black powder muskets as well as a Ruger model 70. Or the same reason I still have a Mac Color Classic on the shelf, along with my state of the art i9. Or the same reason my grandfather's tools mix equally with mine. Or my fishing gear with some reels and rods 20 years older than me. The real question here isn't why people would rather use film - the real question is why did you bother posting such a dumb question?
Like
17
Apr 2, 2020*permalink
I think large format and medium format are a good reason to shoot with film. When a digital system that can give me the same results as my Rollei TLR with its 75mm Schneider lens at the same dimensions/weight and costs the same (~$280 US) hits the market, I’ll probably make the transition from 50/50 to all digital.
Like
Apr 2, 2020*permalink
The same reason that I own a (very expensive) turntable and would rather eat nails than listen to music on an iPhone or through Spotify and Sonos. Either way, if it doesn't float your boat, it's not an issue for you...
Like
4
Apr 2, 2020permalink
Because grain is much more beautiful than pixels, no matter how many megapixels there are. And it's even more beautiful if you print your negatives in the darkroom.
Like
4
Apr 4, 2020permalink
Better question to ask: How much does it cost to buy a good digital camera to shoot those 1,000 digital images, versus the cost of a good film camera? I did the math recently, and found the Nikon Z6 I'm lusting after would keep me in B&W film and processing, at the rate of a roll a week, for well over seven years.
Like
3
Mar 27, 2021permalink
Each of us has another DNA, someone likes girls someone likes muffins. For example, I like both. That's why, I take pictures on film and certainly DSLR's. I have not met with advertising agency, that would tell me, what camera I have to use, to take pictures unless it is a specific account, aka work should be done yesterday. I personally appreciate that "DPriview" has opened a new section on film photography. 5-kudos for "DPriview".
Like
5
Apr 1, 2020permalink
I used to do this in high school, prior digital cameras. Back then it was fun. But we had no other option.
I freely admit that I have been spoiled with the ease to get high quality output with digital. I do not miss having to drag around various colored filters to get the right contrast. And then those filters had a negative impact on resolution. And after all your hard work, and nailing exposure, and hoping to not get dust, you got a clean 8x10 print.
Or you can get the same output with the touch of a cell phone.
Like
1
Apr 1, 2020permalink
Should any of you ever run out of developer while in lockdown...don´t worry...
help is on the way...https://www.huffpost.com/entry/brigette-bloom-_n_5639794
Like
Apr 1, 2020permalink
If you want the "classic" look, use Rodinal developer with a low-speed film. D-76 and similar are technically superior, but that may not be what you're going for. If you were, you'd use a DSLR.
Like
2
Apr 1, 2020permalink
Never liked Rodinal; too muddy for my taste. D76 1+1 or HC110 worked/works best for me with 400 ISO b&w.
Like
2
Apr 2, 2020permalink
mxx: It's a long time ago; my recollection could be muddy as well ;-) . I really worked mainly with D76 1+1 eventually, and was quite pleased with the results. But that's thirty years ago or more when I still had my own darkroom.
Working with an Amsterdam lab, SilverHands, for the last five years showed me the amazing results that he achieved with the Ilford HC110 equivalent.
Like
Mar 27, 2021*permalink
For those folks who have never processed film or watch an image slowly appear in a tray, let me tell you it is magical. Today, Photoshop icons (dodge and burn) capture the means used for image manipulation in a darkroom, from which "Lightroom" is a play on words. But it is not for the lazy or those who have no patience or have a short attention span. There is a learning curve involved, but simple compared to mastering the Sony menu system. The process will slow you down and it is expensive to use and process film. But the cameras and lenses are relatively inexpensive compared to Canon and Nikon digital flagship cameras. Yet there is a connection to tradition, there is something gained by slowing down and thinking about the image you are about to capture, that you can apply to the digital dimension that you cannot learn from a book or YouTube video. That something can make you a better photographer.
Like
5
Apr 1, 2020*permalink
Used to teach 35mm and 120 colour and b/w developing and printing at Bath University to other photography club members in the 1980s. The partially sighted leading the blind. Durst colour enlarger. Heated waterbath drum system and open trays. Nice big darkroom. Decent enough as a "free" resource for students to learn on. 35mm/120 and up to 24"x16" printing.
But I am not convinced that doing the films alone and scanning (and then dust spot correcting scans - ugh) captures either the full horror or the joy of the analogue experience.
Small batch manual C41 colour negative dev + printing without a colour analyser dialing in filtration - just awful.
Cibachrome printing - a bit easier than negative to get punchy results to be proud of but oh - the cost. A shame it has gone away.
Ilford Multigrade adjustable contrast printing black/white - now that *is* interesting for a beginner learning to go from thinking about exposure zones and from click to print.
Like
Apr 1, 2020permalink
Failing miserably to get the print you want in the darkroom for hours is def part of the horror. Then finally dragging the image out after a wastebin full of halo'ed dodges and over done burns is a source of joy and pride.
But lot of people might just be in a flat or house share or just not have the luxury of a spare room so if all they can do is scan then thats still keeping old cameras in use and film factories ticking over so its all good.
Im not convinced scanning film offers anything over digital apart from the pleasure people get from it but that in itself is enough. They've had pleasure of trying to work out the shutter, aperture, and focus for their shots, then gone through the changing bag where anything can happen, then into the tank. Still a good journey.
Like
3
Apr 1, 2020permalink
I had inhaled more than enough vapor from these chemicals in darkrooms.
Never again. I don't miss these days or the smell of darkrooms.
I heard that digital is coming soon, so I'll wait for it. ... :)
To each their own, though.
This should give an idea to those who never held a film camera in their hands what photographers went through before the digital age, however, to produce an image.
Like
9
Apr 1, 2020permalink
Agreed. I didn't spend too much time but enough to be proficient. Fun to try if you have nothing else to do. But I think exploring photographic opportunities is more rewarding.
Like
3
Apr 1, 2020permalink
The environment doesn't need more chemical waste, guys. Let's do the right thing.
Like
4
Apr 1, 2020permalink
Doing B/W over decades I've never felt the desire to go back after going digital some 15 years ago.
Concerning the basic instructions it's worth to add that some of the developing agents have requested agitation of the tank which go from once every 3 sec to much less shake. It's important to follow the instructions of the used chemicals because the developing time may vary significantly according to the agitation scheme.
Squeegeeing: Well the film's emulsion is pretty delicate when wet so after getting in inicial time some films scratched I've never used such a device again. In addition, any type of "rub" of the film stripe may cause static charging and thus attracting dust - which adheres "brilliantly" to the still wet/humid emulsion. So no rubbing and drying the film in a dust free location.
BTW iworth to check hardness of your drinking water when you use that for rinsing because nobody wants nasty lime stains on the film. Wetting agent is your friend.
Like
2
Apr 1, 2020permalink
Same for me, I had some bad experiences with the squeegee leaving a foam-like pattern on the film. My suggestion would be to use either a wetting agent like Photo Flo or a squeegee, but not both. My preference is the wetting agent.
Like
Apr 3, 2020permalink
"Paterson Universal". Fifty years ago I used this tank to develop films, it worked easily even in a completely dark room. Unfortunately, I don't have the tank anymore.
Like
3
Apr 1, 2020permalink
You may also like
 |  |  |  |
| Dec 2, 2022 | Mar 10, 2023 | Dec 16, 2022 | Dec 5, 2022 |
Latest sample galleries
Latest in-depth reviews
The newest version of Panasonic's Micro Four Thirds video-oriented flagship camera has arrived, and it includes features like internal ProRes RAW recording, 32-bit Float audio capture, phase-detect autofocus, and compatibility with Panasonic's Real-Time LUT system and Lumix Lab app.
The Lumix S9 is Panasonic's newest full-frame mirrorless camera. It allows users to create their own custom looks for out-of-camera colors and is the first full-frame Lumix camera aimed squarely at social media content creators.
The Sony a9 III is the world's first full-frame mirrorless camera to feature a global electronic shutter with simultaneous readout. After extensive testing of this 120 fps sports camera, to see what you gain (and, perhaps, lose).
Fujifilm has announced the X-T50, a mid-range 40MP APS-C mirrorless camera that gains image stabilization, subject recognition AF and a host of high-res video features.
The Fujifilm X100VI is the sixth iteration of Fujifilm's classically-styled large sensor compact. A 40MP X-Trans sensor, in-body stabilization and 6.2K video are the major updates, but do they make the camera better?
Latest buying guides
Mar 13, 2024
What’s the best camera for around $2000? This price point gives you access to some of the most all-round capable cameras available. Excellent image quality, powerful autofocus and great looking video are the least you can expect. We've picked the models that really stand out.
Mar 6, 2024
What's the best camera for travel? Good travel cameras should be small, versatile, and offer good image quality. In this buying guide we've rounded-up several great cameras for travel and recommended the best.
Nov 23, 2023
If you want a compact camera that produces great quality photos without the hassle of changing lenses, there are plenty of choices available for every budget. Read on to find out which portable enthusiast compacts are our favorites.
Nov 17, 2023
'What's the best mirrorless camera?' We're glad you asked.
Nov 13, 2023
Above $2500 cameras tend to become increasingly specialized, making it difficult to select a 'best' option. We case our eye over the options costing more than $2500 but less than $4000, to find the best all-rounder.
