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Black tie
Your ultimate black tie dress code guide including where to shop, what shirt to wear and how to tie that bow
By Harvey James and Aaron Toumazou
Kevork Djansezian/Getty Images
What exactly is the black tie dress code? This is a question that could cause rosy cheeks, sweat on the brow and an embarrassed, under-dressed guest. Luckily, GQ knows its way around a tux.
First of all, the dress code suggests a formality that transcends the standard suit and tie of the business/lounge/wedding suit. An actual black tie is not enough for a black tie dress code.
But when King Edward VII swapped out his evening tailcoats for a blue silk smoking jacket with matching trousers in 1885, it signalled a relaxation of traditional dress codes. Mad, our Edward. From there, it became a popular evening outfit in Edwardian Britain and over the pond thanks to its adoption at the private members’ country club, Tuxedo Club, NY (hence “tuxedo”).
To really get to grips with what black tie means for your dress requirements, here is a typical black tie outfit.
Shirt: A white dress shirt with a Marcella front (a stiff geometric cotton weave), and a wing collar for the black bow tie. The shirt should be double-cuffed and will require cufflinks.
Trousers: These will be formal, pressed, and ideally, with a single row of braid or satin fabric to the outside of each leg. Make sure they’re black, fitted and naturally tapered.
Shoes: Black patent leather shoes are recommended. Though velvet slippers can work, just know you're showing off a little bit (no bad thing).
Jacket: A suit jacket that is known as a dinner jacket. This must come with satin lapels, buttons, and pockets. The suit jacket material is traditionally barathea wool in black.
Tie: Always a bow tie for the black tie dress code. You can dare step into using other colours, but not white. That’s strictly reserved for the white tie dress code. A waistcoat is optional, but it must match the jacket and it must never be worn with a cumme*rbund (they essentially do the same job of creating rigidity and good upright posture).
Yes, we’ve mentioned that black is quite important for the black tie outfit. But consider also that a midnight blue (the Cannes film festival way of saying ‘very, very, very dark blue) can actually work, and sometimes appears darker than black under flash photography. In a nutshell: that’s black tie.
What is a black tie event?
In addition to denoting one of the few remaining formal dress codes, what it really implies is importance: awards ceremonies, a milestone birthday party, a grandiose wedding, a prestigious ball. Some of these events will be reflected on as among the greatest memories of your life. Which means there’s no cutting corners.
What does black tie dress code mean?
Ironically, the birth of black tie in about 1885 signalled a loosening of ties, so to speak, among the well-to-do. Edward VII swapped his tailcoat for a blue silk smoking jacket with matching trousers, made by Henry Poole & Co of Savile Row. It provided the monarch with a more comfortable alternative to the formality of evening tails.
This black tie suit style was then adopted by members of the Tuxedo Club in New York, several of whom were Poole customers (tuxedo = Americanism). It was Edward VII’s inspired loosening that eventually morphed into black tie, clinging on to some of the formal accoutrements of tails, such as the black tie shirt’s winged collar and the bow tie, which itself is a descendant of Beau Brummell’s early 19th-century cravat.
Read more: What to do when you don’t read the dress code
What to wear to a black tie event
Now we get to the crux of the matter. What should you be looking for in a dinner suit? From your dinner jacket to a waistcoat and cufflinks, here's the lowdown on everything you need from a black tie suit.
The dinner jacket
The silk-lapelled jacket maketh the black tie outfit. There are three different types of lapels: the notch lapel, the peak lapel and the shawl lapel, the V increasingly deepening through the list, ending with the shawl lapel, which is commonly found on the tuxedo suit and is the most traditional and arguably the smartest. “Traditionally the dinner jacket was in silk but wool barathea is the order of today” says Simon Cundey, the director of Henry Poole & Co. However, the velvet jacket is just as acceptable and, in some cases, chicer.
Here’s a little spanner thrown into the works: traditional black tie isn’t even black. Kaboom! It was midnight blue, which actually looks darker than black in artificial lighting. So, to create the classic monochrome contrast, go for midnight blue.
The jury is out for the white tuxedo. It’s tricky, but it can be pulled off. If you want to step out in a white dinner jacket, our advice is to go off-white with black lapels. Black or white trousers? The answer is always black.
If you plan on experimenting, look to Donald Glover’s brown Gucci tuxedo and David Gandy’s grey dinner jacket for good examples of “not-so-black” black tie in velvet. Equally, the double-breasted jacket is a smart option, but again not traditional. Its versatility means it can be used with other outfits.
Really looking to impress your youthful modernity on the place? Henry Golding in a metallic Tom Ford jacket is how to veer from tradition in ostentatious style.
Burberry dinner jacket
Reiss dinner jacket
The trousers
So long as the trousers are dark, fitted, match the jacket and don’t end up legless during the ceremonies, you’ll be safe. One tip from the lord of black tie, Simon Cundey: the trousers should have braces to “give you that comfort zone to indulge yourself”. That’s what we like to hear. Whether you opt for a break at the hem is up to you, but no more than one gentlemen, please. Oh, and avoid anything that clings, anywhere, at all costs.
Sunflower straight-leg trousers
Reiss trousers
The shirt
A black tie shirt is otherwise known as a dress shirt, one that's traditionally pleated, with a winged collar and holes for cufflinks on the sleeve. If you are going cumme*rbund (we’ll get to that), it is suggested you go with black buttons to break up the white space; if going waistcoat, white buttons are fine.
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“Shirtless?” you gasp. Yes, but not topless. Caleb McLaughlin and, more recently, Oliver Cheshire show you how to don a turtleneck in black tie.
Tom Ford dress shirt
Hawes & Curtis dress shirt
The shoes
Do not keep your black office shoes on. The look needs to be a step up from the smart everyday. This is evening formal wear, after all. Something black and patent is classic and comes off well against the formality of the suit. Velvet slippers are fine too. But suede is not advised (suede looks dusty under artificial light).
Church's Derby shoes
Arket Derby shoes
The socks
Two things to bear in mind: an “evening sock” is considered a requirement and flashing your leg flesh is, simply, uncouth. However, because of the thin material of an evening sock it can almost look like flesh if the trouser leg strays upwards. So you can go a little heavier than the standard evening sock, just make sure your shoe still fits and always go black – unless you’re a black tie badass and can handle the controversy that comes with wearing a coloured sock.
Falke No.6 evening socks
Reiss cotton-blend socks
The bow tie
All stipulations made for the dinner jacket apply to the bow tie. Colour deviation is accepted, if it works. Never can it be white: unsurprisingly, this is saved for the white-tie event, which is among the loftiest of dress codes.
It should absolutely be hand-tied, so give yourself an extra half an hour preparation time, get on YouTube and get those digits working.
“But I saw Timothée Chalamet wear no tie?” Yes, good observation, this is known as the “air tie”. Is it a reduction too much? Well, you need to make sure the rest of your outfit is perfectly balanced and impeccably smart if you’re going for it. You also might need to look like Chalamet, but that’s another story.
Prada satin bow tie
Favourbrook bow tie
cumme*rbund
It’s not a staple, but it does show you respect the dress code and have done your research.
Simon Crompton argues the forgotten most important rule of black tie is hiding the waist, which leads to the construction of “a powerful V at the chest, shooting up towards the shoulders, framed by silk, peaked lapels… your figure is flattered; you look good”.
Tom Ford cumme*rbund
Moss cumme*rbund
Waistcoat
A cumme*rbund is not the only solution, as Henry Poole suggests that a waistcoat keeps things sophisticated while providing the same service. Perhaps opt for a deeper, U-shaped waistcoat to keep the aristocratic air about the suit.
The Kooples waistcoat
Marc Darcy waistcoat
What black tie accessories do you need?
Watch
Ideally, you should have a dress watch (slim, gold ideally, and on a black alligator strap) reserved for these occasions. Look to Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Patek Philippe for the best.
Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000GD-9E
Tank Louis Cartier watch
Cufflinks
Obviously. Nothing fancy, the simpler the better.
Hawes & Curtis cufflinks
Lanvin Sodalite-embellished platinum-plated cufflinks
Hair
Off the face and cleaner than you’d normally wear it (ie, swept back or to the side). Need a little more guidance? Check out our guide to black tie hairstyles.
Horace purifying shampoo
Horace strengthening conditioner
Horace cream pomade
Aftershave
Of course, no gentleman is fully besuited without his eau de toilette of choice. Our guide of scents to wear at your formal event will see you right here.
Moncler Pour Homme EDP
What effect does seasonality have on your black tie suit?
In colder months go for a classic black or charcoal-grey overcoat (ideally a Chesterfield style with velvet collar). Feeling powerful? Go without a coat, suggesting that your high-class body will never come into contact with the chill, elegantly gliding from the chauffeur ride into the event.
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And in the summer? Go three-piece, so you can remove your jacket, let your body breathe and remain looking impeccable.
Read more: How to do black tie in summer
What about black tie suit hire?
A fitted suit is always, always, always (and will continue to repeat into eternity) the way to go. This is something you miss out on when you hire a suit. The fit can be close, but you’ll never look as sharp as tailored.
If cost is an issue, GQ’s Nick Carvell points out that once you’ve bought the suit you can “wear the trousers with a denim jacket, throw the jacket over your T-shirt at the weekend, or wear the whole thing with a button-down chambray shirt and white trainers for a date after hours”.
Not enough time for all that? There are some fantastic services offered by Moss Bros, Debenhams and Burtons, which can be ordered online and couriered right to your (office) door. If you’re looking for something more upmarket, then Yardsmen allows the hire of individual pieces of an outfit selected to your exact measurements.
Getty Images
What does “black tie optional” mean?
A non-committal code such as this makes everyone ill at ease and results in a strange convergence of wedding and office party looks. Not good.
If you do receive the “black tie optional” invitation, go all out. Partly just to spite you invitees and partly because you’ll look better than those that don’t bother.
Black tie etiquette explained
In terms of etiquette, never refer to your jacket as a “DJ”. Calling a DJ a DJ is bad enough. And please don’t make jokes about your dinner jacket having excellent music taste.
Keep in mind that it is a formal event and a certain amount of formal behaviour is required. Don’t shout drunken expletives at the host during speeches and don’t throw the wedding cake on the floor just because. Be cool. Don’t be arrogant, smile and be kind.
Sathnam Sanghera from the Times argues that “the worst type [at a black tie event] is the bloke who takes it all too seriously”. So we hope this guide has afforded a few variants on what is traditionally a strict dress code. It is just a guide, after all. And, let’s be honest, the point of all of these events is to have a bit of fun.
Clue yourself up further with our break down of every dress code known to man.
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Accessories: Accessories such as a dress watch, cufflinks, and proper grooming. Accessories: Accessories such as a dress watch, cufflinks, and proper grooming productsAccessories: Accessories such as a dress watch, cufflinks, and proper grooming products arees: Accessories such as a dress watch, cufflinks, and proper grooming products are recommended:** Accessories such as a dress watch, cufflinks, and proper grooming products are recommended to Accessories such as a dress watch, cufflinks, and proper grooming products are recommended to complementsories such as a dress watch, cufflinks, and proper grooming products are recommended to complement thes such as a dress watch, cufflinks, and proper grooming products are recommended to complement the black tie lookch as a dress watch, cufflinks, and proper grooming products are recommended to complement the black tie look.
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By breaking down these concepts, I aim to showcase my depth of knowledge in men's formal fashionto complement the black tie look.
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11. "Black Tie Optional" Explained:
- Addresses the ambiguity of a "black tie optional" invitation, advising readers to go all out to ensure a sophisticated appearance.
12. Black Tie Etiquette:
- Provides etiquette tips, discouraging the use of informal terms like "DJ" for a dinner jacket and emphasizing formal behavior at such events.
13. Conclusion:
- Encourages readers to have fun with black tie attire while respecting the traditional elements of the dress code.
In summary, this article comprehensively covers the black tie dress code, offering a guide for readers to navigate formal events with style and adherence to etiquette.
