10 Useful Rules for Fungicide Application (2024)

June 22, 2017 - Included in Issue: 630

Since we are well into fungicide application time,below I have listed 10 rules that will help vegetable growers apply fungicides effectively and safely.

  1. Apply fungicides prior to the development of disease. Although many fungicides have systemic (“kick back”) action they will not completely eradicate diseases after they have started. And by the time a single disease lesion is observed in the field, many more lesions too small to observe are already working at your crop. Most systemic fungicides move less than an inch toward the tip of the plant or may just move from the upper to the lower side of the leaf.
  2. Use shorter spray intervals during weather conducive to plant disease. Each plant disease has its own “personality” and thus prefers different weather. However, most plant diseases require leaf wetness. Therefore, during periods of rain and heavy dews, more frequent fungicide applications are a good idea. The normal range of spray applications is every 7 to 14 days. Cantaloupe and watermelon growers have the guesswork taken out of this process with a Purdue University program known as MELCAST. Ask the author for more details by calling (812) 886-0198 or go to melcast.info.
  3. Apply fungicides before a rain if possible. Water is necessary for most fungal spores to infect foliage and for the splash dispersal of spores. Therefore apply fungicides before a rain if it appears that the fungicide will have a chance to dry before the rain. Some fungicides list the rain fastness period on the label. It is not necessary to apply fungicides again after every rain. Most fungicides have a good sticker and will persist through rains pretty well. The MELCAST program takes into account the affect weather has on fungicides.
  4. Know when to alternate fungicides. Systemic fungicides, those with a single mode of action, if applied again and again in sequence, may cause the disease fungi to mutate into a form resistant to the fungicide. Always alternate fungicide applications from one FRAC code (MOA code) number to another. Contact fungicides with a FRAC code of M like chlorothalonil and mancozeb are very unlikely to cause such mutations and therefore may be applied without alternation. Table 29 (page 76) in the Midwest Vegetable Production Guide http://mwveguide.org/ will help growers alternate fungicides.
  5. Timing of fungicide applications is more important than nozzle type and spray pressure. Studies here in southern Indiana as well as by researchers in other areas of the country have found that nozzle type and spray pressure doesn’t make as much difference as we once thought. See the article Spray Pressure and Nozzle Types in issue596 of the Hotline. In general, the more water one uses per acre, up to about 50 gallons, results in better coverage.
  6. Some diseases cannot be managed by foliar sprays. Problems caused by soil borne fungi or nematodes cannot be controlled with foliar fungicides. Examples of these types of problems would be Fusarium wilt of watermelon or root-knot nematodes of tomatoes. Also, be certain that the problem you observe is really a disease. No amount of fungicide will improve a problem caused by soil fertility. Send a sample to the Purdue Plant and Pest Diagnostic Laboratory to determine the official diagnosis http://www.ppdl.purdue.edu/ppdl/index.html.
  7. Use copper products for bacterial diseases. For the most part, copper products are more effective against bacterial diseases than they are against fungal diseases.
  8. Some diseases require specialized fungicides. Diseases, such as downy mildew and Phytophthora blight may require specialized fungicides. It may be wasteful to apply specialized fungicides all season long for diseases that are not a threat. For example, downy mildew of cucurbits usually does not arrive in Indiana until late in the season.
  9. Double-check the label for details. Rates may vary widely based on label changes and different formulations. While you are checking the rate, also make sure that the crop and disease are on the label. Can this fungicide be applied in the greenhouse? Did you get the rate from the Midwest Vegetable Production Guide for Commercial Growers? Check the label anyway.
  10. Play it safe. Always adhere to the Post-Harvest Intervals, Re-Entry Intervals and Worker Protection Standards listed in the label. No one wants an accident or lawsuit. Besides, the label is the law.
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10 Useful Rules for Fungicide Application (2024)

FAQs

What are the conditions for fungicide application? ›

Weather conditions before, during and after spraying, influence spray coverage, retention and efficacy. Spray only when wind direction is consistent, speed is between 2–15 km/h and it is not gusting. In general, do not spray when relative humidity is less than 40 per cent and air temperature is above 25°C.

Which is a fungicide answer? ›

Fungicides are pesticides that kill or prevent the growth of fungi and their spores. They can be used to control fungi that damage plants, including rusts, mildews and blights. They might also be used to control mold and mildew in other settings.

How many times should I spray fungicide on my plants? ›

Each plant disease has its own “personality” and thus prefers different weather. However, most plant diseases require leaf wetness. Therefore, during periods of rain and heavy dews, more frequent fungicide applications are a good idea. The normal range of spray applications is every 7 to 14 days.

What is the best time to apply fungicide? ›

For best results, you should apply fungicide as soon as the disease is diagnosed. For a more preventative approach, applying fungicide throughout the summer months (or when nightly temperatures rise above 60 degrees) can play a key role in the ongoing health of your lawn.

Should I water before applying fungicide? ›

If you water it before then, the fungicide will be washed away and won't be helpful. Be sure to check the forecast, as rain can also wash away the product. Systemic fungicides, however, are absorbed by the roots. To be effective, this type must be watered in after application.

Will fungicide work if it rains? ›

The general rule of thumb often used is that 1 inch (2.5 cm) of rain removes approximately 50% of protectant fungicide residue and over 2 inches (5 cm) of rain will remove most of the residue. Avoid putting on fungicides within several hours before a rainstorm as much can be lost to wash-off regardless of formulation.

What chemical kills fungus? ›

Fungicides kill pathogenic or parasitic fungi by disrupting their critical cellular processes. For example, many fungicides bind with specific enzymes to interrupt the metabolic pathways involved with cellular respiration.

What kills plant fungus? ›

Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) is an effective and inexpensive antifungal agent that is readily available at a supermarket. It is an organic and eco-friendly remedy for black spots and fungal diseases such as powdery mildew.

What is the most effective fungicide? ›

  • Best General Use Fungicide: BioSafe ZeroTol 2.0.
  • Best Fungicide For Powdery Mildew: Athena IPM.
  • Best Fungicide For Bud Rot: PureCrop1 Fungicide.
  • Best Fungicide For Root Rot: BioSafe TerraClean 5.0 Fungicide.

Can you put too much fungicide on plants? ›

Phytotoxicity in the form of leaf cupping and plant stunting on impatiens due to a fungicide overdose. Phytotoxicity can often be diagnosed by comparing the after-spray new growth of the plant to the older leaves that were sprayed.

What is the best time of day to spray fungicide? ›

That means there is a benefit to spraying those products in either the early morning or late evening. Many fungicides, for example, are considered locally systemic. They enter one side of the leaf and can move to the other side. They really cannot move throughout the whole plant.

Does fungicide work immediately? ›

Contact fungicides do not penetrate the blades. Therefore, they must remain on the surface of the leaf blade for about 3-8 days to be effective. The primary purpose of contact fungicides is to form a barrier, which prevents fungus from entering the leaves, so it typically should be applied before the disease begins.

What temperature should I spray my fungicide? ›

Answer: Like most products, Southern AG Insecticides Liquid Copper Fungicide should not be used in temperatures over 85 degrees. We usually recommend to spray early in the morning or in the evening when the temperatures are usually cooler. Spraying in the heat of the day will cause the foliage to burn.

What temperature is to hot to spray fungicide? ›

Tank-mixing certain fungicides can increase the risk of phytotoxicity. For instance, do not tank-mix sulfur and oil-containing products or spray them within two weeks of each other. Do not apply sulfur to sensitive crop cultivars or at temperatures above 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

What is the longest lasting fungicide? ›

The hardest-working, longest-lasting corn and wheat fungicide with preventive and curative control of rusts, leaf spots and blights, Trivapro fits easily into fungicide programs.

Should you spray fungicide before or after rain? ›

Ideally, all fungicides should be applied prior to rain events. If circ*mstances prevent you from getting a spray on in time and you have to spray after a rain event, the DMI/Strobi combinations would be the best choice.

Can we spray fungicide during flowering? ›

Avoid fungicide applications during crop bloom. Spray after sunset or before sunrise, or when the temperature is below 50oF. Use IPM practices to reduce fungicide applications and to increase treatment efficiency.

Can I pour fungicide on soil? ›

– Step 6: Use Soil Fungicide

Apply fungicides, organic or inorganic, in small quantities in the soil by preparing a dilute solution and mixing one teaspoon of the fungicide in a gallon of water.

Should I apply fungicide in the fall? ›

If you see signs of fungus in the late fall–early winter, immediately apply a systemic fungicide. This should be done before your lawn enters dormancy. Also, cut back on watering and manage the buildup of fallen leaves on your lawn (read more).

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