Why fluffy, sweet and nostalgic American buttercream is better than its fancier friends (2024)

For those not in the know, American buttercream is a traditional, old-school frosting calling for little more than powdered sugar and butter or shortening. Yes, a bit of extract, salt and some milk is required, but unlike a Swiss meringue buttercream, made from whipped egg whites, or an ermine icing made from cooking flour and milk into a paste, it is truly the most elementary of cake toppings in terms of ingredients and technique. In my opinion, it’s also the best.

I love the sugary crust it forms, and I am 100 percent okay with its “supermarket-bakery” vibe. I love its fluffiness, its simplicity, and — if made using my technique — that it’s sweet, but not cloyingly so. No frosting is more nostalgic and, I would argue, more deserving of being enjoyed this Valentine’s Day (preferably tinted pink, atop a yellow sheet cake) with your loved ones, than the good old-fashioned American kind.

Because recipes for American buttercream are really just riffs on the original, printed on the box of Domino Confectioners’ Sugar, the ingredients are always the same, as are the ratios (about 7 cups of sugar to about 3 sticks of softened butter). Thus, the most Valentine’s Day-worthy of buttercream frostings is less about what ingredients to include, per se — though I do have a couple of thoughts on the subject — and more about the technique necessary to create the fluffiest, smoothest and not-too-sweet version of your dreams. Here’s how to make it:

Use heavy cream— liberally. Although milk is traditional, heavy cream adds a richness, and more fluffiness and stability to your frosting. Be liberal with your pour (2/3 cup rather than the typical 1/4 to 1/2 cup). The extra liquid cuts the sweetness of the frosting and prevents grittiness (from the sugar) and/or greasiness (from the butter).

Add white vinegar. Although many do so to avoid cracks and to achieve a smooth appearance, I find just the tiniest bit — about 1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon — also curbs the sweetness, allowing the wonderfully creamy mouth-feel of the icing to truly shine. Fellow cookbook writer and cake lover Amanda Faber introduced me to this trick, and I’ve never looked back.

Be generous with vanilla and salt. This is basically my mantra no matter the baking recipe, as both coax out other flavors while also contributing their own, but in American buttercream, they are game changers. I love vanilla for its flavor, and the salt, like the vinegar, counters the sweetness.

The technique

Slow things down. Set the mixer to low while incorporating the ingredients, moving it to medium only at the end of the mixing process. A faster speed produces loads of air bubbles, but keeping it low and slow ensures the creamiest, silkiest and yet still lightest of buttercreams.

Let your cream warm up. Room temperature liquid incorporates more easily into the butter and sugar, preventing graininess and curdling.

Be patient. The texture of the frosting benefits immeasurably from adding the sugar and cream in alternating, small increments and waiting between each addition, until the other is fully incorporated.

Give it time. Once all of the ingredients are combined, whip the frosting for at least five minutes, if not longer. The longer you mix, the more integrated the sugar becomes with the other ingredients, thus tempering its sweetness, and you’ll also get a supremely creamy texture. You’re welcome.

A note on variations: Straight-up vanilla buttercream is a wonderful blank canvas for color and flavor. For instance, substitute 1 cup of cocoa powder for 1 cup of the confectioners’ sugar for chocolate frosting. Or add 1/2 teaspoon of peppermint extract for a minty one; or 3/4 teaspoon of cinnamon for a little spicy kick. And play with color, too. I love pink for this frosting, in celebration of Valentine’s Day (and because I love the color generally), but by all means, choose your favorite and be sure to add it only a drop at a time, as a little goes a long way.

Yellow Sheet Cake With Pink American Buttercream

Storage Notes: Leftover cake will keep at room temperature, covered with plastic wrap, for up to 3 days. Or freeze the frosted cake uncovered, then wrap in plastic wrap and aluminum foil for up to 1 month. Defrost for several hours uncovered on the counter before serving. Unfrosted cake can be frozen for up to 1 month, wrapped in plastic wrap and foil. Store the frosting in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 day or refrigerate it for up to 1 week. Bring the frosting to room temperature before using and give it a quick whirl in the mixer to revive it, if necessary.