What are Haori? 20 Things to Know About Japanese Jackets (2024)

Luxurious haori jackets have been worn in Japan for centuries, with a fascinating history behind them and a legacy that has allowed them to remain an important part of Japanese culture and customs to this day. Often and traditionally paired with a kimono, or hakata, they also look fabulous as part of a contemporary style, and haori pair well with a shirt and jeans. They are perfect for adding a touch of glamour or a splash of color to an everyday outfit and can easily replace your jacket on warmer days for a bespoke look that’s tipped with traditional Japanese fashion. If you want to learn more about this fascinating garment, and also find out how to choose one that is right for you then enjoy this complete guide to Japanese haori jackets.

Simply put, a haori (羽織) is a Japanese traditional jacket with a loose fit. The word haori is derived from the word haoru, meaning to put on a gown, coat or jacket, and can be considered a clothing item along the lines of a jacket, or cardigan in Western clothing. The haori is used to protect against the cold, for ceremonial purposes, and, particularly in more recent times, for fashion.

The origin of the haori is not completely certain, but it is believed to have originated in the Sengoku period (around the 16th century), worn by warriors over their battle armor to protect against the cold weather. Later they became popularised among women by geisha who would wear them over their kimono as a fashionable item. Since they had been traditionally been worn by men up until this point, they were seen as particularly stylish and for women to wear. From the 18th century, haori started to become commonplace enough that they would be decorated with family crests and came to be seen at traditional ceremonies.

From the Taisho era (1912-1926) to the prewar period of the Showa era (1926-1989), women began to attend social events such as kabuki, tea ceremonies, reunions, and social gatherings, and the haori, which had been men's formal wear, became a "going out wear" for women as well. This shift from an exclusively male samurai item to attire for all Japanese people means that the haori has a long legacy in Japanese culture and is a perfect piece for a classic wardrobe.

The haori design is a similar shape to a kimono, with a long torso section and long, rectangular sleeves, attached with a straight seam. The haori features a narrower collar than the kimono, and the torso is narrower, with no overlapping front panels, meaning they are much simpler to wear than kimono and require no decorative belts. Traditionally, a single piece of fabric was used to create each haori. Throughout the 20th century the design evolved with a shorter sleeve length and body. In their modern incarnation, a haori is a lightweight jacket that closes at the front with a simple tie, and can be worn with any outfit.

As a staple item of any quality kimono store, haori are made throughout Japan. Of course, each region (and each kimono maker) has their particular fabric design or pattern. The region most famous for contemporary cotton haori jackets is the southern city of Kurume, known for their Kurume kasuri cotton. You can find out more in 12 Things to Know About Kurume Cotton.

Like kimono, haori are made from various types of hand-decorated fabrics. In the past, the most common was silk (All You Need to Know About Japanese Silk). More popular these days is high-quality cotton, which can be woven with a variety of traditional motifs, and is easier to care for than silk! Haori can be found in a wide range of fabrics, including gauze, lace, or even heavier fabrics like wool, or synthetic fabrics such as polyester and rayon. Whatever the fabric, haori capture the elegance of Japanese design and culture.

Men’s haori, which generally have been used in formal situations, are found in plain colours (such as black or navy), but often feature beautiful hand-painted artworks on the lining, known as gakuura (額裏).

This cotton haori is made with Kurume kasuri cotton. The design, known asmizumari isuniqueto the Kurume region, and is renowned for its meticulous double weave with intricate geometric motif.

Picture haori - haori jackets with a patterned pattern or image covering the back or entire surface - are traditionally worn for events such as New Year's, theater performances, dinners, and other outings. More unique patterns can also be used for casual outings. The image may be embroidered, painted on or dyed into the fabric of the haori.

Shibori haori - One of the primary ways of dyeing haori, this painstaking technique involves tying up parts of the fabric before it is immersed into ink to create intricate patterns between the dyed sections and raw fabric. Tiny dots and lines create beautiful images across the garment. It dates back to the eighth century and is a common method for dyeing haori. Learn more with 5 Things You Should Know About Japanese Shibori Dyeing.

Yuzen - Yuzen involves hand-painting elaborate and colorful patterns onto silk. The art can be traced back to the Edo period and is the primary method of dyeing kimono and creating designs on the back of haori to produce finished images of deep and vivid color. You can also check out these 5 Things You Should Know About Yuzen Kimono.

Kurume Kasuri - Themiyakodoricotton-gauze textile of this contemporary haori, which is a specialty of the Kurume region, ishandwovenwith alternating tension in the weft and warp, creating a compelling and tactilefabric in the style ofclassic sashiko embroidery.

Natural Patterns - It’s very common for haori to feature scenes from nature or one particular flower or plant such as the cherry blossom, clematis, or an all-over floral pattern. You’ll also be able to find animals such as cranes and haori featuring subtle wave patterns.

Komon haori - Komon (小紋) is a traditional Japanese hand-dyeing technique developed throughout the 15th to 17th centuries, characterized by intricate minimalist patterns that cannot be seen from afar. Often found in a variety of vibrant colours, komon pattern haori may seem simple from a distance, but those who have the opportunity to see it up close will be able to admire the craftsmanship.

Plain-colored haori - Much like men’s haori, there are also a plain-colored women’s haori jackets without patterns, which can be worn with casual kimonos such as komon and tsumugi, as well as other types of kimono. While a haori with a pattern may be difficult to coordinate with a kimono, a plain-colored haori can be worn neatly and conveniently without interfering with the kimono's pattern.

Haori are often order-made in expensive silk, and decorated with hand-painted designs, so you can appreciate that getting a brand new silk jacket made by skilled tailor can run to thousands of dollars. Buying vintage haori is a great way to get hold of these unique wearable art pieces at an affordable price.

Modern haori jackets are all about comfort while retaining the classic silhouette and Japanese artisanal quality. The best of modern haori jackets are made of high-quality cotton in regional design using techniques such as Kurume kasuri. They can also be found in a variety of lengths of suit any outfit as a light jacket.

These days, haori can be seen in a wide variety of settings - from traditional ceremonies to being part of a daily outfit. Compared to more formal items such as kimono, haori are much easier to adapt into a western wardrobe, and are great for any situation where you might wear a light jacket or cardigan.

A classic haori is made to be versatile and lined so that it can be worn from fall through winter and spring. When it is too hot to wear a normal haori (around April to October in Japan), a haori made from single-lined fabric is worn, and are often in fabrics such as fine cotton, gauze, or lace. In the cooler seasons, a longer haori jacket can keep you comfortable, making a haori a year-round closet staple!

We’ve got you covered here! Both brand new and vintage haori are available at Japan Objects Store, where you can check out bespoke handpicked pieces made from luxurious silk for both men and women. These pieces can truly be called wearable art and are sure to become an item to suit so many different occasions!

Of course, vintage haori were made to fit their owner, meaning there’s a wide variety of sleeve lengths and general size. When worn with a kimono, haori sleeves are supposed to cover the sleeves of the kimono. When worn with modern clothes, however, shorter sleeves can also make a great statement. Over history, the length of women's haori has changed just like any other fashion trend- making haori available in a variety of lengths. Mid-thigh was the most common length for haori in the past, but these days you can also get shorter haori. You may even come across long haori that can reach your calves!

You may have seen other similar jackets and wondered what the difference is between them. There are a few traditional Japanese jackets and each one fulfils a different purpose. Hanten jackets were worn by those who spend more time outside. For this reason, they are perfect for wearing on colder days or in the evening as they are padded and can easily replace your standard winter jacket for something a bit more unique. You can find out more in our Hanten Guide: How to Choose the Perfect Japanese Jacket.

RELATED JAPANESE LIFESTYLE

MOST POPULAR