Chelsea boots are a wonderfully simple and versatile style of men’s boots. Depending on what they’re made from and how they’re constructed, they have the possibility to be either very elegant or ruggedly casual boots, making them a great addition to your wardrobe. We’ll explain how!
Table of Contents
- Chelsea Boots: The Video Guide
- What Makes it a Chelsea Boot? Defining the Ankle Boot
- Chelsea Boot Characteristics
- What’s Goodyear Welting All About? Sole Construction Explained
- History of the Chelsea Boot
- How to Style Chelsea Boots Like a Pro
- Chelsea Boot Tips: Getting The Best of Your Investment
- Chelsea Boot Details
Chelsea Boots: The Video Guide
Sit back and relax, Raphael is on hand to give you all the info on the best Chelsea boots in our handy video companion.
What Makes it a Chelsea Boot? Defining the Ankle Boot
Chelsea boots are by far some of the best men’s boots to add to your collection. They are also quite simple to define, making them a classic boot that transcends trends and keeps them a stylishly timeless option for many an outfit.
Chelsea Boot Characteristics
1
Elastic Sides
Famous for their elasticated sides, this feature is present on all Chelsea boot models. Allowing a snug fit without adding buttons or laces, it’s these elastic gussets that most people recognize first on a pair of Chelsea boots.
2
Pull Tabs
Most Chelsea boots will have two loops or pull tabs, one at the front and one at the back of the uppers, but it’s possible to find them with just one set of pull tabs at the boot’s rear. This sturdy loop allows you to firmly grip the boot when sliding your foot in, as you won’t be able to use a shoe horn with this style.
3
Ankle Height
Perhaps one of the biggest defining features of the Chelsea boot is it’s ankle-height. It should stop comfortably at your ankle to allow the greatest range of comfort and mobility.
4
Quality Materials
Chelsea boots are one of the few footwear choices where there’s a large amount of uninterrupted material, meaning you’ll want to put some thought into what the uppers of your Chelsea boots are made from.
5
Sturdy Sole
As you’ll want your Chelsea boot to be able to withstand a lot of wear, choose a pair with a well-made sole. Cemented soles may be comfortable to begin with, but are notoriously difficult to replace. Blake and Blake Rapid stitched soles allow for a greater flexibility in your Chelsea boots. Goodyear welted soles are often prized as a reliable choice for your Chelsea boots, as this construction method allows you to replace the soles when needed.
What’s Goodyear Welting All About? Sole Construction Explained
Chelsea boots can be constructed in a range of ways, but the tried-and-tested Goodyear Welt is one of the chief construction methods used when crafting a pair. Whether your preference is for a classic leather or rubber outsole, check out our video all about this footwear feature to find out more.
History of the Chelsea Boot
Chelsea boots have roots in the Victorian era. The design and invention of the Chelsea boot is attributed to J. Sparkes-Hall, boot maker to Queen Victoria. However, he would not have been successful without the development of vulcanized rubber.
In 1839, Charles Goodyear, an American inventor, developed a process to vulcanize rubber in Springfield, Massachusetts, which was patented in 1844. The same year, the British Thomas Hanco*ck claimed to have also invented vulcanization independently for which he received a British Patent in 1844. Regardless of who created it, vulcanized rubber played a crucial role in the design of the Chelsea boot, because for the first time, it allowed the creation of a boot that could be easily slipped on and off without the assistance of buckles, hooks, buttons, or laces.
J.Sparkes-Hall was the first to design a vulcanized rubber –or shall we say ‘elastic’ –sided ankle boot. In the patent that he filled in 1851, he claimed, “She (Queen Victoria) walks in them daily and thus gives the strongest proof of the value she attaches to the invention.” These elastic-sided ankle boots eventually came to be called Chelsea boots.
Why Are They Called Chelsea Boots? How They Were Named
According to J. Sparkes-Hall, the Chelsea boot was initially used by both men and women for walking. Some sources state that they were initially used for horse riding; however, riding breeches in those days were designed to be worn with tall boots. Ankle boots, on the other hand, were a dominant form of men’s daytime footwear, and it is thus safe to conclude that the Chelsea boot was first used for walking and then made the transition to riding.
Equestrian Style
Regardless of whether they had equestrian roots or not, Chelsea boots have long been a staple of the horse rider’s wardrobe. With their simple style, ease of operation, and plain, rounded toe, a pair of Chelsea boots is a welcome addition when riding horseback.
Some even claim they were referred to as Paddock boots at one point in time. In any case, the style remained a staple until WWI. In the mid-1950s, a group consisting of young artists, film directors, and socialists started frequenting the King’s Road area in West London. This group was named the ‘Chelsea Set’ by the media, and they made the name ‘Chelsea’ synonymous with a new way of living and dressing. This group, which included well-known fashion icons Mary Quant and Jean Shrimpton, started favoring the Paddock boots and soon theybegan to be considered the ultimate leisure accessory and hencewere renamed Chelsea Boots.
Chelsea Boots in the 20th Century
London’s theatrical shoemakers, Anello & Davide, re-interpreted the Chelsea boot in the early 1960s by fitting it with a Cuban heel. Their version was known as the ‘Baba boot’ and entered the world of rock & roll. As was expected, their popularity skyrocketed. The main reason for this was the fact that The Beatles were very often seen wearing them.
Legend has it that John Lennon and Paul McCartney each bought a pair at Anello’s shop at 96 Charing Cross Road on the way back to Liverpool from Paris in October 1961. In 1962, George Harrison and Ringo Starr joined them and paired them with suits so they would look like a uniform. Soon they came to be known as ‘the Beatle boot’.
It was also during this time when the image-conscious Mods started wearing tailored suits, drove customized scooters, and wore Chelsea boots. It is quite difficult to ascertain exactly why Chelsea boots were considered the height of Mod fashion, but it is thought that apart from well-known rock and roll bands ( The Rolling Stones wore them as well), French and Italian cultural influences combined with the popular American greaser look played a significant role.
Stylish Spies and Chelsea Boots
Interestingly, the character John Steed from the sixties TV Series Avengers would always wear Chelsea boots, no matter whether it was a combination, three-piece suit with a bowler hat or a tuxedo. This stylish secret agent added Chelsea boots to his costume as a way to help define his character and make him more recognizable.
James Bond, who also received his screen debut in the 1960s, has often been seen in a variation on the Chelsea boot. Sean Connery, who portrayed Bond most prominently in the 1960s, wore a pair of shorter-than-normal Chelsea boots. While you may think this style of footwear isn’t very accurate for Bond’s character, it’s actually quite fitting! In Ian Fleming’s original novels, Bond’s footwear style is described quite clearly:
“[Bond wore] black casual shoes (he abhorred shoe-laces)”
Ian Fleming, ‘On Her Majesty’s Secret Service’
In the 1970s, the Chelsea boot made what most would consider a most unexpected appearance in the most famous science fiction franchise of all time: George Lucas’s Star Wars trilogy!
They made an appearance in all three original films as the shoes worn by the stormtroopers of Darth Vader’s Empire. The only change was that they were stained white to fit into the futuristic look.
Chelsea Boots Today
Chelsea boots today are extremely popular due to their simplistic and classic look.Most versions of the modern boot have eschewed the theatrical look of the 60’s version for a low, classic heel with a sleek profile. They can be dressed up, down, and then back again very easily. Chelsea boots give a man timeless charm and signal heritage.
Chelsea Boot FAQs
Should men own Chelsea boots?
In a word, yes! Men of all ages can consider a Chelsea boot as a great addition to their wardrobes, especially in a more casual 21st Century, where the right pair of Chelsea boots can be dressed up or down according to the formality of the event.
Why are they called Chelsea boots?
The name “Chelsea boot” is derived from a particular group of people from Chelsea, England who wore the style frequently. Because of the popularity within the “Chelsea Set” (as they were known), the boots were nicknamed “Chelsea boots”, and the name stuck.
What are Chelsea boots good for?
Chelsea boots are great for a range of occasions. Although they aren’t formal enough for eveningwear, a dark pair of Chelsea boots in a simple but elegant style will happily accompany you to co*cktail parties and business events. Chelsea boots in mid-tones with subtle decorations can easily bridge the gap between your formal and casual wardrobe pieces. Lighter tones of Chelsea boots with louder detailing will be most at home with more casual ensembles.
Which leather is best for Chelsea boots?
Boxcalf leather is the most traditional material used when crafting Chelsea boots and has a very timeless quality to it. Other grain patterns such as hatch or pebble grain leathers can add an interesting dimension to a pair of Chelsea boots, and a pair in suede can be a great way to put a more casual spin on things.
Are suede Chelsea boots formal?
The Chelsea boot is already deemed to be a more casual style of footwear, especially when compared to an Oxford shoe, and suede is recognized as being more relaxed than smooth box calf leather. Therefore, a pair of suede Chelsea boots would typically be seen as being a more casual style of boot.
What’s the difference between Chelsea boots and ankle boots?
Chelsea boots are a type of ankle boot, but not all ankle boots are Chelsea boots. Jodhpur boots are a close cousin to the Chelsea boot, but they close with a strap and buckle. The Chelsea boot’s defining feature is the elastic gussets that help keep it secured to your foot and ankle.
How to Style Chelsea Boots Like a Pro
Chelsea boots are extremely versatile and can be worn with both formal and casual outfits. Invest in a high-quality pair in a classic color, and you’ll be able to combine the same pair of boots with jeans or a suit as the simple and clean lines of Chelsea boots complement most outfits.
Classic Chelsea Boot Colors
Brown
Brown in all shades is ideal for a pair of Chelsea boots, since it can be easily dressed up or down. If you want to go formal, pair your Chelsea boots with suits in mid to and light tones for the best results. You can also utilize various suit fabrics including flannels and tweed. Consider pairing a dark brown suede pair of Chelsea boots with a charcoal suit for an unexpected combination. Or, wear an odd combination with lighter trousers for more contrast.
Should you wish to go for a more relaxed look, then opt for a pair of straight-leg jeans, with a casual shirt such as an OCBD or a Polo shirt. Of course, you can also wear more traditional casual pants such as chinos (khakis) or corduroys. Tan Chelsea boots can also look stunning, especially with a nicely polished patina.
Black
Black is preferable for more formal looks like white-collar office attire, and co*cktail attire, but not for casual combinations. Here, go for traditional dark business suits with your black Chelsea boots. If you want to relax things a little while still wearing your black Chelsea boots, then either flat front or pleated trousers in flannel or worsted will harmonize well with your Chelsea boots, dress shirt, and navy blazer.
Chelsea boots and eveningwear:
Sartorial No-No
While there are many trendy patrons of the red carpet who wear Chelsea boots with their eveningwear and tuxedos, it’s important to remember that this is just a trend! We do not suggest wearing Chelsea boots with a tuxedo – they are simply too casual. Opt for some elegant evening shoes instead.
Burgundy
Burgundy is an excellent all-around option. They are probably the most versatile and underrated color, meaning you can wear them with almost anything.
Neither black nor brown, burgundy exists as a great sweet spot between these two standard colors. Burgundy Chelsea boots will instantly elevate your more casual attire while adding an air of cool sophistication to your more formal outfits.
Additional Chelsea Boot Detailing
Chelsea boots have been featured in the collections of most leading designers, and you should feel free to experiment with whichever style you are comfortable with. This means that you can now find Chelsea boots with extra detailing and adornments.
Avoid Chunky Soles
Although chunky, thick-soled Chelsea boots are available, these are far more fashion-forward as they give a utilitarian look rather than a refined one. Therefore, slim-soled styles are preferable in keeping with their traditionally sleek form.
Take Note of Toe Detailing
Technically speaking, a pair of Chelsea boots with detailing like a wingtip or a cap toe will be a bit more casual than plain Chelsea boots. However, these can still be worn with both jeans and suits, depending on the color and volume of the detailing. For example, a dark pair of Chelsea boots with a simple cap toe will be more formal than a pair in a lighter color and liberal brogue detailing.
You’ll likely find it best to these boots with a Hacking Jacket or a tweed sports coat to compliment the wingtips. This is more of a country look, and this type of Chelsea boot will stand out from the rest.
Shorter Length = Not a Chelsea Boot
These are a little different from the regular Chelsea boots in that they are slightly shorter in length coming up to just below the ankle. This is a trendy style, that works best with more fashion-forward outfits, rather than classic ensembles.
Chelsea Boot Tips: Getting The Best of Your Investment
Before spending a decent amount of money on a pair of Chelsea boots, there are a few things that you need to take a close look at before making a purchase:
Chelsea Boot Details
1
Fit is King
The Chelsea boot is a close fitting boot and the flexibility is in the side panel and not in the instep. It is, therefore, essential to get the correct size to match your foot. It is best to try them out rather than rely on standard shoe size charts.
2
Pay Attention to Details
Some boots fastened with a zipper, rather than the traditional elastic, aresold as Chelsea boots. Strictly speaking, these are notChelsea boots. As there are a lot of variations being sold as Chelsea boots, check the characteristics enumerated in the article before purchasing.
3
Practical and Stylish Soles
Traditional Chelsea boots have leather soles, so stick with leather for a classic look. Some manufacturers offer a choice of soles to suit various needs, which is great if you want your Chelsea boots to have greater traction or weather protection like you’d find in a rubber sole.
4
High Quality Materials
The uppers of your Chelsea boots will look great in box calf leather. These will provide you the most traditional Chelsea boot style, though you’re able to find other leathers that will fit different purposes. Think of something like a rich suede or woven leather to give an element of texture. The benefit of suede Chelsea boots is they are easy to protect against the elements as an alternative rain boot.
5
Fantastic Elastic
Last, but not least, is the quality of the elastic fastening. This is the defining character and an integral part of its shape. The quality of the elastic is important for the shape, comfort, and longevity of the boots. Ensure the elastic is taught and springy when you buy your Chelsea boots, and bear in mind that a good shoe repair service should be able to replace the elastic when needed.
