Posted on by George Deckner — Leave a Comment
The benefits of soft focus technology are a key part of anti-aging skin care. Soft focus(EU)is the optical blurring of skin wrinkles caused by manipulating the transmission and scattering of light from and into skin.
This technology is useful in anti-aging skin care products(EU) to provide an immediate perception of improved texture and fine line reduction. Skin imperfections are seen because of high contrast. Soft focus particles have the ability to optically reduce the contrast and hide the imperfections of the skin surface. The concept can easily be demonstrated on black textured leather, as seen in the image below, right.
Properties of a good soft focus material:
- An optimum material has a high diffuse transmission (>50% of total transmission): the reflected light is evenly distributed and skin appears even. Imperfections appear less clearly.
- A very high diffuse reflection (>80%) is a sign of shine reduction.
- The diffuser particle needs to have minimal light absorption.
- The diffuser particle needs to have high total transmission to provide a natural appearance.
- Most of the light transmission needs to be diffuse in order to provide an even reflection of light from the skin.
Particle parameters affecting soft focus:
- Refractive index(RI) of the particle.
- Difference between the particle RI and that of the vehicle it is in.
- Concentration
- Porosity
- Solid versus hollow
- Particle morphology
Recommended materials:
- Dow Corning 9701(EU)(Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, silica- Dow Corning(EU)) has a particle size of 1-10 microns, also absorbs sebum, and has an excellent skin feel.
- EP-9293 Al (Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Alumina- Dow Corning) is a 3-5 micron particle.
- SpectrAl PC 401 (Cabot) is a fumed aluminum oxide that has excellent soft focus effects. It has a particle size of 10-30 microns, RI of 1.77, and high diffuse reflection (87% of total reflected) and diffuse transmission (60% of total transmitted).
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George Deckner brings over 40 years of experience as a formulating chemist to his role as a personal care and cosmetics industry expert at Prospector. His rich professional background in innovative product development, research, material science and exploratory formulation, as well as a passion for developing products that make people’s lives more comfortable and happy, inform the articles he writes for Knowledge.ULProspector.com.
In addition to lending his industry expertise to Prospector, George consults with personal care and cosmetics suppliers. He founded his consulting practice, Deckner Consulting Services, after retiring from Procter & Gamble in 2013, where he was a Victor Miles Research Fellow. While at Procter and Gamble, he worked in skin care product development, global fragrance development, and most recently oral care product development in the Oral Care Advanced Technology Innovation Group. Before being appointed a Victor Miles Research Fellow, he also served as Associate Director of Exploratory Formulation for skin care product development.
While at Procter & Gamble, George was one of the top inventors, with 354 granted and filed global patents (201 U.S. patents). He helped develop many of the core platform technologies used in skin care today with numerous products commercialized under the Olay, Bain de Soleil, Clearasil, Noxzema and SK2 brands.
Previously, George was a Senior Chemist and Manager in the area of skin care product development, as well as the Director of Exploratory Formulation for Charles of the Ritz Group. During this time, George received the President’s Cup Award for outstanding business contribution and developed numerous marketed skin care products under the Bain de Soleil, Jean Nate, Yves Saint Laurent and Charles of the Ritz Brands.
George is a current member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and is on the scientific advisory board for Cosmetics & Toiletries Magazine. He is a frequent guest lecturer for numerous key global suppliers, as well as for local and national SCC meetings.
George is an avid tennis player and follower of the sport. He lives in Cincinnati, Ohio.
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