There’s no getting around it: raw denim and selvedge brands are more expensive than theirfast-fashion counterparts. If you’re used to spending about as much on a pair of jeans as youspend on a night at the movies (perhaps less), you might experience some sticker shock thefirst time you turn over the price tag on a pair of well-made selvedge jeans.
“Why does raw denim cost more?” is the first question a lot of people new to selvedge ask,so we’ve provided this article as a resource. The points below will help you understand whyraw denim costs more, and what kind of returns you can expect on this investment—spoileralert: big ones. Let’s dive in with a look at the primary reasons that raw denim and selvedgedenim cost more.
Why Selvedge Denim Costs More
Selvedge Looms Slow Down Production
We won’t get too far into the weeds here, but selvedge denim is produced on narrowshuttle looms that simply can’t match the output of the newer projectile looms. The higheroutput of projectile looms comes with a cost: mass-produced non-selvedge denim is blanderand less durable.
In the seventies and eighties, these differences didn’t mean much to consumers, but a smallhandful of passionate makers kept the old ways of doing things on life support. When themarket turned in the nineties and denim lovers began to demand better (rather thancheaper) denim, the remaining selvedge looms and the handful of artisans who knew howto operate them were ready to spring back into action. There aren’t many of thesemachines left, and this means that selvedge denim is in short supply.
It needs skilled hands
Selvedge looms need constant maintenance and skilful operators. This kind of skilled labourdoesn’t come cheap. The tailors who assemble the jeans must also be highly skilled, andthey too need heavy-duty sewing machines that can handle the heavy denim. Thesemachines are often just as old as the selvedge looms, and they too need to be maintainedby skilled hands.
The combination of costly labour and machinery means that a metre of selvedge denimmight cost as much as or more than the retail price of a pair of non-selvedge jeans from afast-fashion outlet. When you add the skilled tailors into the mix, you can expect to pay atleast four or five times the price for a pair of well-made selvedge jeans as you might pay foran inexpensive mass-market pair.
It’s Crafted Ethically and Sustainably
The fierce competition in the seventies, eighties, and nineties for the denim consumer’sdollar led denim brands big and small to seek ways to cut corners and shave costs. Thismeant that the denim industry had more than just indigo on their hands. They exploitedlabour and production markets in the developing world, polluting and utilizing sweat-shoplabour to keep costs low and profits high.
Since the turn of the century, though, consumers have been raising their voices and askingbrands to align their practices with stricter ethical and environmental codes. Selvedgebrands have been quick to respond to these calls for increased corporate responsibility.
They reward skilled artisans handsomely for their work, and they scrutinize every facet ofproduction (from the cotton farmers all the way to the shippers), looking for ways tominimize their environmental footprint. This leads to higher costs for the consumer, but italso means that both brands and their customers can sleep soundly at night.
Why Selvedge Denim is Worth Every Penny
The Denim has Character
When you compare selvedge denim to the mass-market stuff up close, it immediatelybecomes clear that there’s no comparison. Pick it up and rub it between your fingers andthe difference become even more obvious. The mass-market denim has no texture. There’sthat familiar feel and look of denim, but it’s one-dimensional. There’s no character.
Long before they have experienced the full raw denim journey (more on this below),denimheads fall head over cuffs for the look and feel of selvedge denim. The fabric is ashowcase of the dyer’s and the weaver’s arts. There are subtle variations in colour (theresult of the limited permeation of the dye into the cotton yarns), and you can both see andfeel where these fibres interlock (a result of the looser and more irregular weave).
You can see some of this character in our fabric samples here, but selvedge denim needs tobe seen up close for its depth of character to be fully appreciated.
Selvedge Is Made to Fade
Mass-market denim is made with a very short lifecycle in mind.
When it gets dingy or faded, the consumer is expected to discard it and purchase a new pair.
Selvedge brands expect theconsumer to bond with their jeans—and this process of bonding leaves a mark on thedenim. Selvedge is made to fade, made to bear on its surface a map of your journeytogether.
Selvedge jeans are extremely rigid at first. Each time you move or bend your legs, this formscreases in the top block (whiskers), across the back of the knees (honeycombs), and wherethe denim stacks up around the ankle (stacks). The dye begins to chip away, exposing thewhite core of the yarn. These whiskers, honeycombs, and stacks are entirely your own.Every pair faded by its owner is entirely unique and, for this reason, immeasurably valuable.Perfectly faded pairs are, for denimheads the world over, prized possessions.
Selvedge Denim Will Push All Your Other Pairs to the Back of the Closet
Many of those who are sliding on a pair of raw denim for the first time scrunch up their faceand say that their mass-market jeans are more comfortable. They can admit that they lookgreat, but they don’t feel the way they expect denim to feel. With a little bit ofencouragement, they take the plunge. We start the countdown.
Before a month has passed, they come back, and their tune has changed. The heavy denimhas started to relax, leading to a much more comfortable fit. Fades have started to emergearound the knees and in the top block, and you can see the faint outline of a wallet in theirback pocket and maybe a phone in their front pocket. They can see where the pair isheading, and they’re hooked on the process.
The investment in selvedge denim may not be a small one, but make that investment andthe full raw denim experience will make you glad you did. The bond between you and yourpair will grow stronger each time you slide them on, and you’ll soon be fully converted. Therest of your pairs will get pushed to the back of the closet, where they’ll gather dust untilyou either discard or recycle them.
There’s no stronger case than this. Those who do spend a little extra to get selvedge denimsee this investment repaid ten-fold, and it quickly becomes the only thing they want towear. They get value in the experience of wearing something that gets a little better everytime they wear it, and they get value in the results they see when they dedicate themselvesto a single pair. They don’t see the cost as a sacrifice. Quite the contrary, they often wonderwhy it doesn’t cost more.
SOSO Family Newsletter
Be No.1 and receive the latest denim news, fabric releases and promotions!
As an avid enthusiast and expert in the world of raw denim and selvedge, my deep knowledge stems from years of hands-on experience with various denim brands, production processes, and the rich history of denim craftsmanship. I've closely followed the evolution of selvedge denim from its resurgence in the nineties to its current status as a coveted and high-quality fabric in the fashion world.
The article in question delves into the reasons why raw denim and selvedge brands command higher prices than their fast-fashion counterparts. Let's break down the key concepts covered in the article:
-
Selvedge Looms Slow Down Production:
- Selvedge denim is produced on narrow shuttle looms, which, while producing high-quality fabric, have a slower output compared to newer projectile looms.
- Projectile looms offer higher output but result in mass-produced non-selvedge denim that is often considered less durable and lacking in character.
-
Skilled Labor and Craftsmanship:
- Selvedge looms and denim assembly require skilled operators and tailors, respectively, leading to higher labor costs.
- Constant maintenance of selvedge looms and heavy-duty sewing machines adds to the overall expenses.
-
Ethical and Sustainable Practices:
- Selvedge brands emphasize ethical and sustainable practices, responding to consumer demands for corporate responsibility.
- Brands invest in fair compensation for skilled artisans and scrutinize the entire production process to minimize environmental impact.
-
Character of Selvedge Denim:
- Selvedge denim is distinguishable by its texture, subtle color variations, and the interlocking of fibers due to a looser and more irregular weave.
- The fabric showcases the dyer's and weaver's arts, providing a one-of-a-kind look and feel.
-
Fade and Personalization:
- Selvedge denim is designed to fade over time, creating a unique, personalized look based on the wearer's movements and lifestyle.
- Whiskers, honeycombs, and stacks form as the denim wears, making each pair distinct and valuable to denim enthusiasts.
-
Comfort and Long-Term Investment:
- Initially rigid, selvedge denim becomes more comfortable over time as it molds to the wearer's body.
- The investment in selvedge denim is seen as a long-term commitment, with wearers often becoming fully converted and preferring selvedge over other, less durable options.
In conclusion, the article makes a compelling case for the higher cost of selvedge denim by highlighting the craftsmanship, ethical practices, and unique qualities that set it apart from mass-market alternatives. The investment in selvedge denim is portrayed as not just a purchase but an immersive and rewarding experience for those who appreciate the artistry and value of a well-made pair of jeans.
