Opinion: Beyer’s Byways: A (brief) history of Calico Ghost Town - Parks (2024)

Photo courtesy of San Bernardino County Regional Parks.

By John R. Beyer, Daily Press

In 1881, one of the largest silver strikes in California occurredin a place named Calico. This rough-and-ready mining town grew, almostovernight, as miners dug into the multi-colored mountains which inspired thename for the town and pulled out tons of silver.

With over 500 mines, and a combined output of over $20million in a little over a decade, Calico became the place to go.

Even though the silver dried up in the mid-1890s and theminers left, Calico is still the place to go for tourists looking for a bit ofauthentic old west history. Nearly 130 years later, this tiny piece of westernlore, is one of the most visited living ghost towns in California.

We love Calico, truth be told. Laureen and I have performedwestern skits there, walked the main street garbed in our best period attire,posed for hundreds of photographs and had conversations with visitors fromaround the world.

History is important, and keeping it alive thrills us.

But this isn’t about us. It’s about the location of a placewhere people made dangerous journeys, sometimes against all odds, to seek abetter life for themselves and their families. The dreams of easy riches droveminers to embark on a trip which didn’t guarantee anything, except hardship.

Most dreams were never fulfilled, but those men did make thejourney with those dreams in tow. Perhaps it was enough for them, those dreams.A handful of silver in your pocket would be nice, but the dream is probablyjust as important. It was the catalyst to go beyond what they believed theywere capable of, and if they didn’t achieve a fortune, well, they proved theywere tough enough to try.

That’s what visitors discover in Calico, just a short drivenortheast from Barstow. Tourists, no matter if they are locals or from aroundthe nation or world, all believe the ruggedness of these pioneers is somethingworth reliving.

If Calico isn’t a piece of the unique American story, thennothing is.

Barry Clark, a consummate wild west performer described itwell: “It’s an up-close and personal visit into history, while interacting witha few galoots acting-up along the way. It’s also just fun.”

According to Pico Pistolero, Calico’s resident gambler, “Avisit to Calico is a rare opportunity to experience how early miners eked out aliving that formed the fabric of the American West.”

In 2005, California’s governor at the time, ArnoldSchwarzenegger, proclaimed that Calico was to be California’s Silver Rush GhostTown. A great honor for a small, almost forgotten piece of desert real estatepurchased in the 1950s by Walter Knott — yes, the founder of Knott’s BerryFarm.

Before Schwarzenegger, the broken and deserted former silvertown was bought and brought back to life by Knott. He knew the history of theplace and believed others should know it, too. His belief was so strong thatinstead of making it part of his entertainment industry, he donated it to theSan Bernardino County Regional Parks system in 1966.

Knott wanted everyone to enjoy and understand the importanceof this small community crammed against the hills, pockmarked with miningtunnels dug by many seeking unending fortunes.

Walking along the steep main street makes one wonder howpeople coped in these conditions. It must have been a tough life. Hard andcruel. But they kept going, like many during that time period.

With the spirit of hard work, the town grew to over 1,200residents. Three hotels, five general stores, a market, saloons, threerestaurants, boarding houses and, of course, (please don’t read this to thechildren) brothels were soon spreading out along the main street of Calico.

A few years after silver was discovered, more fortune cameto Calico with the discovery of the borate mineral colemanite. Huh?

OK, it’s a mineral used for heat resistant glass and otherthings like cosmetics, medicines and industrial usages. Well, I just learnedsomething. That’s all I got. I’m not a mineralogist but it’s a pretty rock,too. Maybe collectors would like it on a shelf in their house.

After that discovery, the population grew to over 3,000 inCalico. That was a decent size town during the 1890s. Then, just like thesilver, the colemanite dried up, and the town’s population left for brighterfutures. Dreams were dashed and perhaps new dreams were formed. Soon, the townturned ghostly quiet.

In fact, like all good stories, there are rumors thatotherworldly spirits may inhabit the nearby Boot Hill. This is the section oftown easily visited just southwest of the entrance, where locals and badmenwere buried during Calico’s heyday.

Take a walk around the graves — perhaps something in thewind may whisper of an undiscovered vein of silver, or the pretty colemanite.Of course, perhaps it’s just the wind?

Calico is a must see, and it’s so close. Walk the streets, watch the western reenactors, visit the shops, have a meal at one of the restaurants, quaff a beer, visit the historic buildings and enjoy the atmosphere.

Odessa Red, co-owner of Odessa Red’s Parlour Crafts andCuriosities, said, “I’ve met countless tourists over the past 20 years who lovevisiting. They come back year after year because of the history and the townseems almost magical to them. It is worth a visit.”

California’s Silver Rush Ghost Town is worth a trip anytimeof the year. Perhaps you’ll see townsfolk sashaying along the boardwalks, alldressed up going about their business.

Or maybe they’re the ghosts of the folks from back whenCalico was alive with those hard-working people who are still hoping to maketheir dreams come true.

Contact John R. Beyer atBeyersByways@gmail.com