- Blog
- The Fitting Room
- 23 October
When you buy a new suit, there are white stitching on the jacket shoulders, the vents are sewn closed and the pockets are stitched shut. These all need to be removed to prepare the jacket to be worn. I’m here to explain to you how to remove all these stitching, without damaging the fabric of your brand new suit.
The white stitching is a form of tradition, which shows the jacket has been completed with care and by hand. Nowadays, even suits that are made in a factory production line are finished with this type of stitching to keep with tradition. All of these stitching are decorations only, and extra details to shows the manufacturer’s care in the product, and to prove that it is a brand new suit. They need to be unpicked before you are wearing the suit. A lot of guys are a bit nervous about taking scissors to their new suit. They are afraid of making small holes and nips in the suit, which may cost hundreds to repair. Therefore we often have clients ask us to prepare the jacket for them before wearing. Here is a breakdown of how easy it is to remove yourself. When done properly, it shouldn’t take more than 2 minutes.
Firstly, the stitching on the shoulder needs to be taken off. It is usually made with white basting stitch which can be easily tugged and broken off. If there are still some threads left in the jacket, just find the end of the knot and pull out the rest of the string. Try to only use blunt ended scissors if needed.
Firstly, the stitching on the shoulder needs to be taken off. It is usually made with white basting stitch which can be easily tugged and broken off. If there are still some threads left in the jacket, just find the end of the knot and pull out the rest of the string. Try to only use blunt ended scissors if needed.
Now we come to the sleeves. Often there is a small tag on the sleeve with the name the brand printed. Sometimes it is held by plastic tags, and sometimes hand-stitched with cotton threads. This tag needs to be removed before wear. I have seen a sales assistant at a high end watch shop, showing of his new designer suit by keeping this tag on his sleeve. Just by this little rookie mistake, it instantly downgraded his class and authority on all things high end related. The stitching on these tags on the sleeves are usually quite tight, so be very careful when you are taking it off. We can do it for you if you are not sure. It’s better to be careful than sorry. A small hole can cost $100s to repair.
Lastly, you need to unpick the pockets on the jacket, so you can start using them. There is a breast pocket for your pocket squares, and two front pockets where you may like to keep a handkerchief. (Usually valuables like phone and wallet are kept in the inside pockets.) To open the pockets, simply poke your finger into the small gap on the corner of the pocket, and tug gently. The threads should come out easily and the pockets are opened. Try to not go digging with a pair of scissors and risk damaging the jacket.
There you go, now you are equipped with all the knowledge needed when preparing a new suit to be worn for the first time.
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As someone deeply immersed in the world of men's fashion and sartorial elegance, I understand the nuances and intricacies involved in the process of acquiring and preparing a new suit. The article you provided touches upon the essential steps of removing the stitching from a new suit without causing any damage to the fabric, a task that requires precision and a delicate touch.
Let's delve into the key concepts discussed in the article:
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White Stitching Tradition:
- The white stitching on the jacket shoulders is described as a tradition signifying that the jacket has been meticulously completed by hand. This tradition, though historically associated with handcrafted suits, is maintained even in factory-produced suits to uphold a sense of care and tradition.
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Decorative Nature of Stitching:
- The article emphasizes that the stitching, including on the vents and pockets, serves a decorative purpose. It reflects the manufacturer's attention to detail, presenting the suit as brand new and carefully crafted.
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Concerns About DIY Stitch Removal:
- Many individuals are hesitant to remove these stitches themselves due to fears of damaging the suit. The author addresses common concerns, such as the possibility of making small holes or nips with scissors, which could result in expensive repairs.
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Step-by-Step Stitch Removal Guide:
- The article provides a step-by-step guide for removing the stitching, starting with the white basting stitch on the shoulders. It recommends using blunt-ended scissors and offers advice on dealing with any leftover threads.
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Sleeve Tag Removal:
- Attention is drawn to the presence of a small tag on the sleeve, often with the brand name. Removing this tag is highlighted as a crucial step before wearing the suit, as leaving it on may be considered a fashion faux pas.
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Caution with Sleeve Tag Stitching:
- The author emphasizes caution when removing the tag, especially when it's tightly stitched. Anecdotes about individuals making the mistake of leaving the tag on and its potential impact on perceived class and authority add a practical dimension to the advice.
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Pocket Unpicking:
- The article concludes with guidance on unpicking the pockets, highlighting the breast pocket for pocket squares and the two front pockets for items like handkerchiefs. The recommendation is to gently poke a finger into the pocket corner to avoid damaging the jacket.
By sharing this comprehensive knowledge, the article aims to empower individuals with the confidence and know-how to prepare their new suits for wear, ensuring they showcase both style and sophistication.
