How Should You Button Your Suit Jacket and Waistcoat? (2024)

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Tips & Advice

King and Allen
How Should You Button Your Suit Jacket and Waistcoat? (1)

It’s the tailoring dilemma that just won’t go away: to button or not to button.Below are some hard and fast rules – and some rules that can be bent – regarding when a button should be done up.

How should you Button your Suit Jacket?

Single-Breasted Jackets

Never do up the bottom front button of a single-breasted jacket – especially if it’s bespoke.

We aim to create a silhouette on the jacket which cuts in at the narrowest point on your torso and splays out slightly over the hips. This cut is both flattering and fashionable – and one of those features which only a tailor can achieve.

Doing up the bottom button pulls the ‘skirt’ (lower half) of the jacket in too tight and ruins this hard-to-achieve effect.

Double Breasted Jackets

Fastening the bottom button of a double breasted jacket is optional.

Some people (including Prince Charles) prefer the formality of a fully fastened jacket. It’s entirely up to the discretion of the wearer.

How Should You Button Your Suit Jacket and Waistcoat? (3)

Working Cuff Buttons

If your suit is bespoke it will have working cuffs on the sleeves.Although you’ll have the option to open all of them, it is recommended that you only open the last one to ensure that the sleeve doesn’t flare out too much.

How Should You Button Your Suit Jacket and Waistcoat? (4)

How should you Button your Waistcoat?

Single-BreastedWaistcoat

Famous three-piece wearer, David Gandy, might disagree, but take it from us: never do up the bottom button of a single-breasted waistcoat.

These days, this is more of a practical rule than an aesthetic one. You don’t want to have to undo a button every time you sit down like you would a jacket.

The derivation stems from that same practical reasoning. It is generally believed that the ever-expanding King Edward VII could not sit down on his horse with his bottom button done up. To save him the embarrassment, the rest of court followed suit – if you’ll excuse the pun.

How Should You Button Your Suit Jacket and Waistcoat? (5)

Double-Breasted Waistcoat

We recommend you fasten all the buttons on a double-breasted waistcoat to maintain the fitted shape of the garment.

How Should You Button Your Suit Jacket and Waistcoat? (6)

A Suit That Exceeds Your Expectations

Finally – a suit that fits you properly!

Interested in learning more about waistcoats? We have written a whole article on 5 timeless waistcoat styles to consider for your next suit.

Or if you're ready to book a free bespoke suit consultation with one of our expert tailoring consultants, click here.

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How Should You Button Your Suit Jacket and Waistcoat? (2024)

FAQs

How Should You Button Your Suit Jacket and Waistcoat? ›

When wearing a waistcoat keep the bottom button undone on the waistcoat. If you wear a jacket over the top, generally no jacket buttons are done up, or the rules above are followed.

Do you button a suit jacket with a waistcoat? ›

We're not big on rules, but we stand by the “never button the last button” rule. Vest or no vest, buttoning the bottom button will make you look like a rube, plain and simple. If you do have a vest on, the bottom button on the vest ought to remain unbuttoned as well.

What is the 3 button rule? ›

The three-button suit, like others, comes with a simple rule: "sometimes, always, never." This means you should sometimes fasten the top button (if you want to), always fasten the middle button, and never fasten the bottom.

What is the 2 button suit rule? ›

The two button suit rule says you should button the top button while the button on the bottom is left open. Like every other type of suit jacket design, this style exudes a timeless and bold look. This can also be seen in how designers cut the suit to accommodate this style.

Why do you not fasten the bottom button on a waistcoat? ›

Waistcoats were designed to fit snugly to the body, and leaving the bottom button undone allowed greater freedom of movement, particularly when sitting down.

What is the button etiquette for waistcoats? ›

So what are the rules? The golden rule is to leave your bottom button undone. If you fail to do this, get carried away, and button all of the buttons up, than all the time you spent matching your tie, starching your shirt and polishing your shoes will have been a waste.

Is it OK to leave your suit jacket unbuttoned? ›

Yes, you can leave your suit jacket unbuttoned when standing and for sure unbuttoned when sitting, depending on the style and fit of the jacket. Leaving it unbuttoned allows for more freedom of movement and a relaxed appearance.

Why do men unbutton their shirt? ›

Some people might wear their button-up shirts unbuttoned because they think it looks cool or stylish, while others might do it for comfort or because they're hot. There's really no wrong answer - it's all about what you like and what makes you feel good.

What is the one button rule? ›

Buttoning rules for one-button suit jackets

The issue of deciding which button to fasten doesn't exist due to only one buttonhole on the suit's jacket. These jackets should ALWAYS be buttoned when standing. Unbutton the jacket when sitting down so that it doesn't crease.

Should you unbutton the second button? ›

TL;DR: Just the top button undone is the answer for most of us, most of the time. Two buttons undone can be fine for many of us, some of the time. Finding dress shirts with a slightly lowered second button can give you that “just right” look all of the time.

What is the etiquette for suit buttons? ›

With a single-breasted, three-button suit, simply close the middle button, always. The top button is optional and can be buttoned up or left undone. The bottom button, again, should never be buttoned, as it will put a strain on the fabric of the suit jacket and will not look flattering.

Should suit jacket be open or closed at wedding? ›

Button up your jacket (unless you're sitting down)

The general rule is 'button up unless you're sitting down' – suits are designed to be closed while standing so that it looks sharp, falls nicely and fits you well.

Can I wear just a waistcoat to a wedding? ›

If you're attending a Wedding, Award Ceremony, The Races or A Black Tie Ball then by all means wear a waistcoat but if you're going for an interview, going on a date or heading for the office then its probably best to stick to your trusted Two-Piece Suit.

Should a suit waistcoat be tight? ›

A waistcoat is designed to sit at the waist, just over the waistband of your trousers. There is a strap at the back to tighten across the waist, if needed. It should sit close to your chest, but not so close that the buttons pull across your chest, causing opening between the buttons, putting strain on the fabric.

Do you button jacket a 3 piece suit? ›

How to wear a 3 piece suit? Jacket can be worn buttoned or unbuttoned. The waistcoat must always be worn buttoned all the way up, leaving the bottom button open. In the past the open bottom button prevented the waistcoat from riding-up when on horseback.

How do you wear a waistcoat with a jacket? ›

A double-breasted waistcoat should always be cut proportionally to the jacket you're wearing it with so that the body of the vest isn't visible when your coat is buttoned up. Avoid wearing double-breasted waistcoats with informal or country-style fabrics like tweed.

Do you wear buttons on top or bottom of waistcoat? ›

Out of respect for the King, the British court followed suit and it soon became the fashion to leave the bottom button undone.

When should you button a suit jacket? ›

Let's expand on this.
  1. Top Button – buttoning when standing is optional, though you should always unbutton when sitting. ...
  2. Middle Button – always fasten the middle button when standing, and unbutton when sitting. ...
  3. Bottom Button – The last should never be buttoned, sitting or standing.
Jan 19, 2023

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