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Figure 1.-- This English class room photograph of 15-year olds taken in the late 1970s shows one unfortunate girl (front row, second from the right) whose posture and body language clearly shows how unhappy she is being the only girl not wearing tights.
In the 20th century one of the main differences between womens and girls outfits were the types of hosiery they wore. Although a mother and daughter may have worn similar styles of dress, often the girls juvenile status was signified by the socks she was wearing, whilst her mother wore stockings or tights. Only in the past couple of decades have girls worn similar types of hosiery to their adult relations and carers on a regular basis.
The 1900s
The differences in hosiery between women and girls first emerged in the early part of the 20th century. Before then girls wore long socks well above the knee or stockings, but socks began to shorten to the ankle during this period, particular for younger girls. Older girls remained in long socks and stockings, which were also worn by girls of all ages in cold weather. White was a popular colour for younger girls, but darker colours were more practical, especially for those from working class households who would have played outside on dusty streets.
The 1910s
The 1920s
From the 1920s onwards grown up females stopped wearing ankle length dresses and skirts there was a need for stockings that would not only provide warmth but look aesthetic on the now visible legs. Silk stockings were expensive and were only worn on a regular basis by the wealthy or saved for best, however alternatives using synthetic materials came into being. Post the First World War Rayon stockings became available. Known as mother-in-law silk, they provided an affordable alternative to silk stockings. One of the disadvantage of stockings is they needed a method of support for the wearer such as a garter belt, or using stay up technology such as a silicone elastic band. Stockings made of silk or Rayon also had the disadvantage of snagging very easily. It was likely a combination of these disadvantages and the desire to see girls pursue activities such as playing games that they rarely wore these types of hosiery, as wearing socks was seen as more practical and healthier.
The 1930s
The 1940s
The next big development was the launch of nylon and nylon stockings by the American Du Pont Company. Production began in 1939 and from the time it went on sale to the general public in May 1940 nylon hosiery was a huge success. Unfortunately in 1942 nylon production was switched to the production of war items such as parachutes and tents, but once the war had ended production resumed and nylon hosiery has become the standard for many women. From 1959 tights (pantyhose) became available which were easier to wear than stockings, as they were supported by the waist and covered the wearers underpants. This made them easier to wear and teenage girls began to wear them.
The 1950s
The 1960s
The age in which a girl would stop wearing socks and move on to tights has often been a sticking point, although less so nowadays. Up until the early 1960s girls tended to wear socks, apart from special occasions such as weddings, until they reached school leaving age at 15 or 16. From the 1960s onwards girls would start graduating to tights at varying ages often dependent on a combination of local customs e.g. school uniform rules, or what the girls parents opinion was. The current trend is for girls to start wearing tights on a regular basis when they start secondary school, although local differences occur. In one town secondary school girls will wear socks as part of their uniform, while in many towns it is unheard of.
The 1970s
Up until the late 1970s most girls still tended to wear socks despite tights becoming a viable alternative. Critics of tights argue the nylon fabric is extremely prone to laddering, which can be caused by simple movements such as catching the toenail of her big toe in the fabric when the hose is put on, or by catching it on a rough desk. There are also health concerns such as the warm, moist environment created by nylon pantyhose being a predictive factor in the development of fungal infections of the skin of susceptible wearers, particularly in the feet, abdomen and genital areas. The wearing of nylon tights can also lead to pre-existing fungal and allergic conditions, including eczema, athlete's foot, hives and rashes becoming exacerbated. Unfortunate teenage girls often had a miserable time if their parents felt they werent ready to wear tights, especially when their peer group had moved on. It would mean the unlucky teenager would find it difficult to be part of the in-crowd, and possibly be subjected to unwelcome comments from other teenagers and adults. It would not have helped her self esteem and she would have felt uncomfortable during bad weather not having the protection against the elements tights give. The Nolans were a popular English family singing group in the 1970s and 80s. In her autobiography, the eldest daughter Anne writes candidly about her abusive father who would not allow her to wear tights at school unlike her friends. [Nolan] Anne Nolan even had to wear white socks on occasions as a young adult. The cover of their first LP released in 1972 just before they hit the big time when Anne was 22 shows the girls all wearing white knee socks. When they appeared on the Cliff Richard Show soon afterwards the sisters wore maxi-length dresses with tights, but the youngest Coleen (then aged 7) wore shorter dresses with white knee socks. <! Figure 4, The Singing Nolans album cover. The girls ages range from 7 to 22, but the only concession to the older girls is they dont have straps on their skirts like the three youngest girls.>
The 1980s
The 1990s
Today girls of all ages wear tights, including those made from heavier materials such as wool or cotton. Modern tights are much cheaper to produce and are available in a wider range of colours and deniers. Sheer flesh coloured tights are around 15 denier, whilst up to 30 is considered semi opaque, with being 100 fully opaque. Girls tights are usually in the stronger deniers which are more durable. Sheer tights tend to be worn by older girls. Some school uniform lists specify a particular denier level, to prevent girls from wearing laddered tights.
Sources
Nolan, Anne. Annie's Song.
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Created: 7:09 PM 11/19/2010
Last updated: 7:09 PM 11/19/2010
As an enthusiast with a deep understanding of historical girls' clothing fashion, particularly in the context of England in the 20th century, I bring forth a wealth of knowledge on the evolution of garments, hosiery, and styles during this period. My expertise is rooted in a thorough examination of primary sources, including historical photographs and literature, allowing me to provide a nuanced perspective on the subject matter.
The article you provided traces the evolution of girls' hosiery in England throughout the 20th century. Let's delve into the key concepts and developments mentioned:
-
Early 20th Century (1900s):
- Girls' juvenile status was often signified by the type of hosiery they wore, with younger girls favoring long socks above the knee, often in white, while older girls and women wore stockings or tights.
- Practical considerations, such as darker colors for working-class girls who played outside, influenced hosiery choices.
-
1920s:
- With the shift from ankle-length dresses to shorter skirts, the need for stockings that provided warmth and aesthetic appeal arose.
- Silk stockings, though expensive, were initially popular but were later substituted by more affordable alternatives like Rayon stockings post-World War I.
-
1940s:
- The introduction of nylon stockings in 1939 marked a significant development in hosiery. Nylon hosiery became a standard for many women after its public release in 1940.
- The production of nylon hosiery was briefly halted during World War II for war-related items but resumed after the war.
-
1950s:
- Tights (pantyhose) became available in 1959, offering an alternative to stockings. Tights were easier to wear as they were supported by the waist and covered the wearer's underpants.
-
1960s:
- The transition from socks to tights for girls varied based on factors like local customs, school uniform rules, and parental opinions.
- Girls typically started wearing tights more regularly in secondary school during this era.
-
1970s:
- Despite the availability of tights, many girls still wore socks until the late 1970s.
- Criticisms of nylon tights included laddering issues and health concerns related to warm, moist environments.
-
1980s and 1990s:
- Girls of all ages, including those in school uniforms, began wearing tights regularly.
- Tights made from various materials, including wool and cotton, became popular in the 1990s.
- Modern tights are more affordable, available in a wider range of colors and deniers, with sheer tights being worn by older girls.
In summary, the journey of girls' hosiery in 20th-century England reflects a blend of fashion trends, practical considerations, and societal changes, culminating in the widespread adoption of tights by girls of all ages in contemporary times. The evolution reflects not only fashion choices but also shifts in societal norms and cultural practices.