For many young cooks, a pan of scrambled eggs is the first dish they master. But after we crack those first few eggs, it's probably a technique we don't think about very often. In fact, for most of us, a batch of scrambled eggs is the ultimate culinary autopilot: Just crack, break apart with whatever kitchen implement is nearest, toss in some cheese, and pile on toast. But stop right there, scramblers! Our test kitchen has outlined a few necessary tips that will take your eggs from spongy, dry, and serviceable to fluffy, creamy, soft, and dreamy. After all, as Claire Saffitz, associate food editor, says: "Scrambled eggs are easy to make, but difficult to do well."
1. Embrace the Nonstick Pan
Saffitz, digital food editor Dawn Perry, and test kitchen contributor Jessie Damuck all agree: This is a job for your trusty nonstick skillet. Sure, we love our cast-irons, but unless they're really, really (reeeeally) well-seasoned, the eggs will stick to the bottom and sides. That means fewer eggs for you, and more scrubbing and scraping when it comes time for cleanup. Perry also advises us to use the right-sized pan for the job: For 2-4 eggs, a small pan will do. For a 6+ scramble, choose a large pan with plenty of surface area.
2. Skip the Milk and Cream
"The better quality eggs, the better your scramble will be," says Damuck. When you're using good quality eggs, you don't need much else to make them shine. The test kitchen prefers to scramble without the addition of cream or milk, although Saffitz does cop to folding in a few knobs of butter toward the end of the cooking process ("For really luxurious eggs," she says). As for what fat to cook the eggs in? Perry uses olive oil and butter interchangeably, although the test kitchen does agree: If you're up for indulging, butter makes it better.
Scrambled Eggs, Avocado, and Smoke Salmon, on Toast. Photo: Ditte Isager
3. Don't Crack the Eggs into the Pan
There's no way around it: You're going to have to dirty another dish. Crack the eggs into a bowl, and break apart the yolks with a whisk before beating them well to combine. Cracking the eggs directly into the pan and using a spoon or spatula will result in a streaky, not-soft scramble.
4. A Silicone Spatula is Best
A silicone or heat-proof spatula is the ideal tool for this job. A wooden spoon will work in a pinch, but it's just not as good at getting into the seam where the sides of the pan meet the bottom. Don't use a metal spatula, which could scrape and scratch the nonstick coating.
5. Cook 'Em Low and Slow
Preheat the pan over medium heat, but don't get too crazy with the flame when it comes time to actually cook the eggs. "Scrambled eggs should be cooked slowly, over medium-low heat," explains Perry. "A good scramble takes a minute!" Go hotter, and you'll have overly dry eggs. Worried they're cooking up too fast? Simple. Just remove the pan from the flame as you continue to stir the eggs. Which brings us to our next tip…
