Posted by Poppy Charles on November 13, 2019
Black tie, when worn well, is a delight and one of the most elegant and flattering dress codes you can wear. For a polished and tidy look it is often worn either with a waistcoat or a cumme*rbund, the latter, the focus of this post.
cumme*rbund or Cumberbund?
First things first, let’s get one thing clear, this silk sash worn around the waist is written and pronounced cumme*rBUND. It is not Cumberbund, Cumberband, cumberbun or any such variation. The etymology of the word stems from the Persian/Urdu word Kamarband, which kamar meaning loins and band meaning sash. Cumberbund might not be an attractive word when it rolls off the tongue, however, it certainly has a better ring and connotation than Loinsash. cumme*rbund is a Hindi word, and we appropriated it when British military officers were stationed in colonial Indian during the 1850s. One can only wonder if the mistake with “cumber…” perhaps comes from the association of it fitting around a cumbersome waistline?
The cumme*rbund would have been a welcome addition to a gentleman’s wardrobe in the tropical climes of India, as it provided an altogether cooler alternative to wearing a waistcoat, as indeed it does today. Choose which of the two accessories to wear with your black tie, but never wear both.
A cumme*rbund serves as the perfect accessory for ensuring your black tie has elegant line and polish. It is important (and logical) to note that it should only be worn with a single-breasted jacket. It sits neatly around the waistband of your trousers, covering up any untidiness where your shirt is tucked in, stopping the tails from coming un-tucked and covering up the distracting triangle that forms below the dinner jacket button and waistband when your tuxedo is worn closed. The white V that appears above the jacket button line presents in a composed and flattering manner, opening up and broadening the chest, whilst below the button, it can look clumsy and unkempt. A good cumme*rbund, such as those sold by Budd, will have a tab or loop concealed on the inside, allowing the wearer to attach it to the button on trouser waistband, anchoring it safely in place so as it does not ride up.
cumme*rbunds are usually black and cut from silk. They are pleated, with the pleats worn facing upwards. They adjust to size, thanks to a simple and discreet adjustable fastening at the back. It is said that the pleats were worn upwards in order to provide a handy slot in which to store tickets or small bills. cumme*rbunds are ordinarily worn with a bow tie. When the bow is omitted, so should the cumme*rbund. You may find that other colours are available when shopping around for a cumme*rbund, however, the most flattering of all designs is black. It will elongate the legs and tidy your frame. Should you wish to opt for a different colour, do not match it to your bow tie, instead keep your bow tie black and vice-versa. Matching your bow and cumme*rbund is a little de trop, and is more reminiscent of a game-show host or 70s wedding singer than chic, debonair gent.
One extra point – there is some debate as to whether you can wear both a cumme*rbund and braces (suspenders) at the same time. Ideally, your trousers will have strap and buckle adjusters and no need for braces, however, we also understand that they do work wonders for the hang and drape. If you are going to wear a pair, opt for black or white. Personally, we find things look a little too busy when all facets are combined, and would advise trying to keep your jacket on. However, braces and cumme*rbunds are not mutually exclusive, so do what works best for you. There is no sartorial faux-pas at play, let your own eye guide you.
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FAQs
If you wear a cumme*rbund with the pleats facing downwards, it will be considered incorrect etiquette. To wear a cumme*rbund, all you have to do is wrap the sash around your hips where your shirt meets your trousers (making sure the pleats are facing upwards), and then secure the clip at the back of the sash.
What are the rules for cumme*rbunds? ›
Whilst it's okay to exert individual expression with some men's accessories like ties and lapel pins, cumme*rbunds come with a rule book that's black and white. cumme*rbunds are designed with rows of pleats that should be worn facing upwards. cumme*rbunds should be worn at your natural waist line.
Are cumberbunds still fashionable? ›
Given that it has such a long history, you may wonder if the cumme*rbund is still relevant today. In short – yes. But for a longer answer, the cumme*rbund is still a relevant fashion choice as long as you choose the correct venue in which to wear one.
Is it OK to not wear a cumme*rbund? ›
The cumme*rbund was fundamentally a girdle, the cumme*rbund wants to give uplift. The cumme*rbund is a relatively recent addition to the evening-clothes. Wearing a cumme*rbund is not necessary and the only time it should be worn is with a single-breasted tuxedo.
Do you curve a cumme*rbund up or down? ›
The cumme*rbund is worn around the waist, placed on top of a shirt and pants. It does not attach to the clothing. Before you put on your cumme*rbund, always turn it so the pleats are facing up. (Remember, you won't catch any crumbs if the pleats are down.)
What is the difference between a cumme*rbund and a sash? ›
The word “sash” is still in use, mostly for shoulder and waist coverings, whereas cumme*rbund is specifically used for that piece of cloth that is wrapped around your shirt and waistline of your pants or trousers and connected in the back.
Do you wear suspenders with cumme*rbunds? ›
You can wear them with suspenders
Wear suspenders underneath your cumme*rbund to create a truly 007 look. If you're going to wear both at the same time, always ensure your suspenders are underneath.
What's the point of a cumberbund? ›
The primary purpose of the tuxedo cumme*rbund is the preserve the immaculate presentation expected when wearing formal attire. Serving as a waist covering, a tuxedo cumme*rbund prevents your shirt from showing below the buttoning point of your jacket, maintaining a much neater appearance.
What can I wear instead of a cumme*rbund? ›
Because both the cumme*rbund and vest serve a similar purpose, they can in most cases be interchangeable. However, there are a few unique considerations to keep in mind with each to help you figure out when to wear a tuxedo with cumme*rbund vs. tuxedo with vest.
Should a cumme*rbund match the tie? ›
While the traditional rule suggests that the bow tie should match the cumme*rbund, contemporary fashion allows room for creativity. From the classically coordinated to the adventurously mixed, OTAA offers a wide range of options to find the perfect pairing for your style.
Today it's a popular trend for modern day weddings and proms for gents to wear the color of their cumme*rbund of their female counterparts, to look like a matching set. On the other hand a black cumme*rbund will always be the most elegant and safe choice for a gentleman.
Does James Bond wear a cumme*rbund? ›
Though the cumme*rbund is a well-known part of black tie, Bond has only worn a cumme*rbund on a handful of occasions. Traditionally, one isn't wearing a cumme*rbund because he's wearing a waistcoat or a double-breasted dinner jacket, but those situations do not make up the rest of Bond's black tie outfits.
What is the most classic tuxedo style? ›
The most traditional model of tuxedo jacket: black and single-breasted with one closing button, peaked lapels with silk facings, and no rear vents.
Do the pleats go up or down on a cumme*rbund? ›
The pleats of the cumme*rbund are meant to face upward. While they may not carry the same functional role as back in Great Britain's colonizing days, the pleats still are meant to face upward so that they can store and catch things. Your dress pants should rise to your navel.
What is the loop on a cumme*rbund for? ›
Second, you want a little loop that is straight in the middle of the cumme*rbund so you can button that in to the front of your trousers, therefore ensuring that the cumme*rbund always stays in the right position, covering the top part of your evening shirt as well as the waistband of your trousers, pants, or slacks.
Do you button a tuxedo jacket with a cumme*rbund? ›
Tuxes (as with any other suit or blazer) are properly worn with the top button (or top 2 buttons on a 3-button suit) buttoned when standing and unbuttoned when seated. Vests, of course, are always buttoned whether standing or seated - with the bottom button always left unfastened.
What is the difference between a belt and a cumme*rbund? ›
Suspenders are a practical accessory designed to hold the trousers in place like a belt while the cumme*rbund is an aesthetic accessory intended to conceal the trouser waistband and the undecorated shirtwaist like a waistcoat.
